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After New York and London, it’s the turn of Milan, one of the four fashion capitals, to present its new fall-winter 2023 collections. Since February 21 and until February 27, fashionistas, journalists and fashion personalities cross paths in the streets of Milan to attend the most important fashion shows.
The program for this Italian fashion week includes 59 shows and 70 presentations, punctuated by 29 cultural and social events.
Fendi : between homage and modernism
Kim Jones, artistic director of the House of Fendi since 2020, delivered a new collection on Tuesday, February 21, rich in references, tributes and style.
As a fan of science fiction, the designer chose a sort of tunnel of light as a backdrop for his show, giving the impression that the models were coming out of a space-time portal. The show paid tribute to Delfina Delettrez Fendi, a member of the eponymous family and creative director of the brand’s jewelry. Kim Jones drew inspiration from her wardrobe to create looks that were modern and classic, oscillating between sophistication and trends. He unveiled a feminine wardrobe that breaks the codes of the classic by adding a personal touch and just the right amount of renewal.
Kim Jones plays on the superposition of materials and forms, in particular with skirts-pants, great trend of this season. You don’t know what to choose between a pair of tailored pants and a pleated skirt to go to work? You don’t have to think about it anymore, just combine the two.
Most looks are still formal and classic. But Kim Jones knows how to give them that avant-garde touch that allows the collection to go off the beaten path. In many of the suits, asymmetrical closures add a little something extra. Suit jackets are reworked and deconstructed: goodbye XXL or pronounced shoulders, and hello bare shoulders.
The color palette remains neutral, with a few acidic touches. We find black, gray, navy blue, brown, but also sky blue, orange red and raspberry pink. Some looks are monochrome like these jacket, pants and skirt sets, while others are more vibrant with for example this red asymmetrical top, accompanied by pink satin pants and skirt and black shoes. The mix and match of materials and colors, Kim Jones masters it to perfection. Finally the knitwear is still at the rendezvous, with tube dresses, light and transparent tops but also skirts.
In addition, the artistic director has integrated some couture elements to the collection as in these shirts mixed with lace camisoles, a small nod to his show last January. For him, “it’s about capturing this elegant, chic and sophisticated Fendi woman“.
The favorite of the editors? A black trench coat all monogrammed Fendi, with a perfect fit.
Diesel plays the card of provocation
Once again, Glenn Martens, who has been at the helm of Diesel since 2020, showed the fashion world the extent of his talent as well as his overflowing and offbeat creativity.
Even before the show, guests were immersed in the atmosphere with a special invitation. It was not a traditional invitation card, but a…box of condoms that informed them of their location. And to continue in this offbeat universe, the models walked around a giant mountain of condoms: 200,000 boxes to be precise.
This scenography was not only decorative but also announced a collaboration with Durex, which will be released next April as a capsule collection. On some pieces of the collection, we could see a new logo: a mix of the D of Diesel and the rest of the word Durex. As surprising as it may seem, this new collection pleases.
In addition to the provocative side of the decor and sound during the show, Glenn Martens unveiled a collection where deconstruction, degeneration and deterioration were king. Indeed, since his debut in the House, he relies a lot on the destroy and torn, style of the 2000s, while bringing it up to date, with a futuristic side, sometimes disturbing, sometimes appreciated.
The show started with a series of dresses, skirts and jeans made of devoured denim, with parts intact and others completely transparent. It was as if a giant sticker was stuck on each model, before parts were removed.
The mixed fashion show presented total looks in denim and leather for men, others in knitwear and denim for women. We could also find the trend of low waist pants, dating from last year. And after the belt dresses, there were belt tops with the silver Diesel logo in large, placed in the middle of the chest.
Among the most graphic and original pieces, there are coats in fake fur, covered with plastic, others in icy material that give the impression of flowing or dripping. Towards the end of the show, Glenn Marteens presented a series of clothes printed with lips and teeth, whether it was skirts, tops, crop tops or down jackets.
The color palette was rather varied starting from neutral shades at the beginning, like blue or black before turning very quickly, to other lighter and flashier like pink, green or red.
The favorite of the editors? Sequined pointed-toe thigh-high boots that we would love to have in our wardrobe. With a skirt, jeans, or even just with tights, to reclaim the trend of the moment of the it girls.
Read also >London Fashion Week: tribute to V. Westwood and new face for Burberry
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After New York and London, it’s the turn of Milan, one of the four fashion capitals, to present its new fall-winter 2023 collections. Since February 21 and until February 27, fashionistas, journalists and fashion personalities cross paths in the streets of Milan to attend the most important fashion shows.
The program for this Italian fashion week includes 59 shows and 70 presentations, punctuated by 29 cultural and social events.
Fendi : between homage and modernism
Kim Jones, artistic director of the House of Fendi since 2020, delivered a new collection on Tuesday, February 21, rich in references, tributes and style.
As a fan of science fiction, the designer chose a sort of tunnel of light as a backdrop for his show, giving the impression that the models were coming out of a space-time portal. The show paid tribute to Delfina Delettrez Fendi, a member of the eponymous family and creative director of the brand’s jewelry. Kim Jones drew inspiration from her wardrobe to create looks that were modern and classic, oscillating between sophistication and trends. He unveiled a feminine wardrobe that breaks the codes of the classic by adding a personal touch and just the right amount of renewal.
Kim Jones plays on the superposition of materials and forms, in particular with skirts-pants, great trend of this season. You don’t know what to choose between a pair of tailored pants and a pleated skirt to go to work? You don’t have to think about it anymore, just combine the two.
Most looks are still formal and classic. But Kim Jones knows how to give them that avant-garde touch that allows the collection to go off the beaten path. In many of the suits, asymmetrical closures add a little something extra. Suit jackets are reworked and deconstructed: goodbye XXL or pronounced shoulders, and hello bare shoulders.
The color palette remains neutral, with a few acidic touches. We find black, gray, navy blue, brown, but also sky blue, orange red and raspberry pink. Some looks are monochrome like these jacket, pants and skirt sets, while others are more vibrant with for example this red asymmetrical top, accompanied by pink satin pants and skirt and black shoes. The mix and match of materials and colors, Kim Jones masters it to perfection. Finally the knitwear is still at the rendezvous, with tube dresses, light and transparent tops but also skirts.
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After New York and London, it’s the turn of Milan, one of the four fashion capitals, to present its new fall-winter 2023 collections. Since February 21 and until February 27, fashionistas, journalists and fashion personalities cross paths in the streets of Milan to attend the most important fashion shows.
The program for this Italian fashion week includes 59 shows and 70 presentations, punctuated by 29 cultural and social events.
Fendi : between homage and modernism
Kim Jones, artistic director of the House of Fendi since 2020, delivered a new collection on Tuesday, February 21, rich in references, tributes and style.
As a fan of science fiction, the designer chose a sort of tunnel of light as a backdrop for his show, giving the impression that the models were coming out of a space-time portal. The show paid tribute to Delfina Delettrez Fendi, a member of the eponymous family and creative director of the brand’s jewelry. Kim Jones drew inspiration from her wardrobe to create looks that were modern and classic, oscillating between sophistication and trends. He unveiled a feminine wardrobe that breaks the codes of the classic by adding a personal touch and just the right amount of renewal.
Kim Jones plays on the superposition of materials and forms, in particular with skirts-pants, great trend of this season. You don’t know what to choose between a pair of tailored pants and a pleated skirt to go to work? You don’t have to think about it anymore, just combine the two.
Most looks are still formal and classic. But Kim Jones knows how to give them that avant-garde touch that allows the collection to go off the beaten path. In many of the suits, asymmetrical closures add a little something extra. Suit jackets are reworked and deconstructed: goodbye XXL or pronounced shoulders, and hello bare shoulders.
The color palette remains neutral, with a few acidic touches. We find black, gray, navy blue, brown, but also sky blue, orange red and raspberry pink. Some looks are monochrome like these jacket, pants and skirt sets, while others are more vibrant with for example this red asymmetrical top, accompanied by pink satin pants and skirt and black shoes. The mix and match of materials and colors, Kim Jones masters it to perfection. Finally the knitwear is still at the rendezvous, with tube dresses, light and transparent tops but also skirts.
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