Engagement rings, the new oaths

The feeling of love, the notion of the couple and its various expressions are subjects that have never been so topical. Is this a way of escaping the anxiety-inducing climate we’re all forced to live in? The good news is that the will to commit remains intact.

 

The ritual of the engagement ring as a precious and highly symbolic object endures, but it is evolving. The search for new styles, different stones and greater personalization reveals a quest for singularity.

 

In search of light

 

The engagement ring is a symbol of strong commitment, illustrating an a priori indestructible bond. A moving and festive jewel, it is precious not only because it is a talisman, but also because it is destined to be handed down from generation to generation.

 

Embodying these values, the diamond remains the most prized stone, for its brilliance, authenticity and rarity. Diamond is also the hardest stone, hence its aura of eternity. It is particularly appreciated as a solitaire, being sublimated in all its purity.

While diamond cutters and jewelers are constantly inventing new shapes, sizes and styles to accentuate its brilliance, the brilliant (round) cut, much publicized by Cartier and Tiffany, remains the best-selling diamond in the world. But the offer is evolving, multiplying the number or arrangement of diamond facets (Chaumet’s Impératrice cut with 88 facets, the Buccellati cut in which each facet is reflected, the Wempe cut with 137 facets instead of the traditional 57…) to create intense plays of light.

 

Destinée solitaire mounted in platinum and diamonds © Cartier

 

Frames are set in different ways: the center stone is set in a diamond corolla or surrounded by brilliants, or set in mirror-polished claws to optimize brilliance (Destinée by Cartier, Splendora by Wempe, Ava by Boucheron, Aura by De Beers…). After the brilliant cut, emerald (rectangular), princess (square), oval and cushion cuts are the most popular. But other cuts, known as fantasy cuts, are gaining ground. Women are no longer just looking for a diamond, they’re looking for uniqueness, style and difference.

 

1930 ring in platinum, old cushion-cut diamond approx. 2 cts, diamonds, René Boivin © Collector Square

 

Legacy and storytelling

 

An engagement ring, beyond the emotion it arouses, must tell a story.

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Read also > THE ENCHANTED JOURNEY OF JEWELLERS DURING FASHION WEEK (CHAPTER 1/2) – WHEN JEWELRY EXPLORES TIME

Featured Photo: © De Beers

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Isabelle Hossenlopp
Isabelle Hossenlopp is a journalist specialized in jewelry. A graduate of Sciences Po Paris, she has over 30 years of experience in the luxury industry, including 11 years at Chanel. She is also a consultant in editorial content and storytelling and teaches in luxury MBAs in management and communication schools.

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