The enchanted journey of jewellers during Fashion Week (Chapter 1/2) – When jewelry explores time

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Haute Joaillerie presentations at Fashion Week were inspired by travel through time and space. From the Byzantine era to the seventies, from London to Naples, from the sky to the ocean or through the four seasons: look back on an enchanted week sailing through the ages.

 

In this first chapter (the second to be published in a few days), the jewelers invite us on a journey through the ages, from an aristocratic Grand Siècle enamored of ancient culture, praising the long view, to the carefree, flamboyant extravagance of the 1970s and 1980s.

29 cm Tie The Knot hair jewellery brooch, Carte Blanche, More is More Collection © Boucheron

 

This journey through time begins with Boucheron, transporting us to the acidulous pop era of the 80s. As always, the House surprises us with its incredible creations, featuring materials never before seen in jewelry (bio-acetate, magnesium, Murano glass…) and oversized “jewel-objects” saturated with color and invention.

 

Perched on a podium, designer Claire Choisne presents, like toys, an enormous brooch-jewel of hair, a mega-necklace in titanium and hyceram (a mix of ceramic and polymer) studded with diamonds and garnets, a lacquered and diamond-embellished pouch that magnetizes to a minidress, or a series of rings adorned with intrepid cubes and balls. Jewelry for fun!

 

Just An Illusion link necklace, Carte Blanche, More is More Collection © Boucheron

 

Extravagance too at Messika, where diamonds explode with light in a very seventies disco atmosphere! The glow of the sun in the middle of the night illuminates the Midnight Sun collection. Rings are set with huge white, yellow or pink diamonds, both pear-cut and heart-cut, to reinforce the surprise effect, like this breathtaking model where 2 heart-cut diamonds, white and pink, respectively 16.18 and 7.06 cts, face each other like you and me.

 

On the Fever Glitter necklace, 15 cushion-cut yellow diamonds are set on snow-set diamond squares, as if to further enhance their magnificent brilliance (over 87 cts in total). In this gleaming collection, the taste for extravagance is multiplied by the hypnotic effect. And let’s not forget that, with a father who is a renowned diamond dealer, Valérie Messika is on the front line when it comes to acquiring the finest stones.

 

Glitter Fever necklace 15 yellow diamonds, white diamonds © Messika Paris

 

Back in calm waters with Van Cleef & Arpels and the Le Grand Tour collection, which continues this journey into the past, between the 16th and early 20th centuries, when young aristocrats toured Europe, from London to Naples.

 

The colors of the stones evoke the different ports of call, climates, landscapes, monuments, arts… On the Regina Montium necklace, two bewitching tourmalines, weighing 16.26 and 27.70 cts, combine their blue-green hues with the blue and mauve tones of sapphires, aquamarines and tanzanites.

 

Four flexible cuffs reproduce miniaturized panoramas (Venice, Rome, Florence and Naples) that seem watercolored by the precious stones. Characteristic of the Maison’s savoir-faire, the setting of the stones completely conceals the metal structure supporting them. These jewels evoke the mosaic bracelets brought back from Italy by young men. A true feat of craftsmanship.

 

Escale antique bracelet, pink gold, emeralds, tsavorite garnets, diamonds © Van Cleef & Arpels

 

Buccellati also revisits the theme of Italian mosaics. Flowers, filigree tulles, arabesques and geometries make up this collection, which recaptures the colors and shapes of the glass paste tesserae of Byzantine mosaics.

 

The Mosaico collection is a superb work of meticulous craftsmanship in which white diamonds, fancy yellow diamonds and colored stones – small in size to perfectly reproduce the mosaic effect – are highlighted with hand-engraved gold threads. The pieces are light, openworked, articulated and as supple as fabrics.

Flexible bracelet in yellow and white gold set with fancy diamonds and round brilliant-cut diamonds © Buccelatti
Yellow and white gold necklace set with rounded brilliant-cut diamonds, rounded faceted emeralds, rounded faceted sapphires and oval-cut diamonds © Buccelatti

Le Voyage Recommencé. The name of Cartier‘s collection invites us on a journey to the heart of the Parisian Maison’s style, seen through the prism of abstraction.

 

The fundamentals are there: geometry, chromatic harmony, contrasts of light and shadow created by small yokes of onyx (Claustra necklace) or lapis lazuli (Panthère Givrée necklace), or the purity of vanishing lines, as on the Girih necklace.

 

This masterpiece is inspired by one of the founding themes of the Cartier style: the arts of Islam and the splendor of its architecture, with its abstract motifs and perfect symmetry. The intensity of the design is matched by the power of the green-blue harmony, so dear to Louis Cartier, between Zambian emeralds and turquoise cut by the lapidary.

Girih necklace, platinum, emeralds, turquoise, diamonds © Cartier

 

After a first Tweed-themed collection in 2020, Chanel Joaillerie once again interprets the luscious, precious fabric. 63 exceptional pieces express the richness of tweed’s supple, subtle weaves through skilful swaddling in five different colors and five icons dear to Gabrielle Chanel: the white ribbon, the pink camellia, the comet on a blue background, the yellow sun and the lion enhanced by a flamboyant red.

 

The Camélia bracelet, studded with small gold flowers, reveals a superb pink sapphire and is finished with a pear-shaped diamond, while the Ruban collection emphasizes reliefs and interweavings to create a monochrome tweed, particularly supple and openworked, entirely in pearls and diamonds, two gems that Gabrielle Chanel was particularly fond of.

Tweed Ruban bracelet in white gold and diamonds © Chanel
Tweed Pétale bracelet in pink gold, white gold, diamonds and pink sapphires © Chanel

 

 

Read also > > Metamorphosis: the second chapter in the De Beers fine jewelry collection

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Haute Joaillerie presentations at Fashion Week were inspired by travel through time and space. From the Byzantine era to the seventies, from London to Naples, from the sky to the ocean or through the four seasons: look back on an enchanted week sailing through the ages.

 

In this first chapter (the second to be published in a few days), the jewelers invite us on a journey through the ages, from an aristocratic Grand Siècle enamored of ancient culture, praising the long view, to the carefree, flamboyant extravagance of the 1970s and 1980s.

29 cm Tie The Knot hair jewellery brooch, Carte Blanche, More is More Collection © Boucheron

 

This journey through time begins with Boucheron, transporting us to the acidulous pop era of the 80s. As always, the House surprises us with its incredible creations, featuring materials never before seen in jewelry (bio-acetate, magnesium, Murano glass…) and oversized “jewel-objects” saturated with color and invention.

 

Perched on a podium, designer Claire Choisne presents, like toys, an enormous brooch-jewel of hair, a mega-necklace in titanium and hyceram (a mix of ceramic and polymer) studded with diamonds and garnets, a lacquered and diamond-embellished pouch that magnetizes to a minidress, or a series of rings adorned with intrepid cubes and balls. Jewelry for fun!

 

Just An Illusion link necklace, Carte Blanche, More is More Collection © Boucheron

 

Extravagance too at Messika, where diamonds explode with light in a very seventies disco atmosphere! The glow of the sun in the middle of the night illuminates the Midnight Sun collection. Rings are set with huge white, yellow or pink diamonds, both pear-cut and heart-cut, to reinforce the surprise effect, like this breathtaking model where 2 heart-cut diamonds, white and pink, respectively 16.18 and 7.06 cts, face each other like you and me.

 

On the Fever Glitter necklace, 15 cushion-cut yellow diamonds are set on snow-set diamond squares, as if to further enhance their magnificent brilliance (over 87 cts in total). In this gleaming collection, the taste for extravagance is multiplied by the hypnotic effect. And let’s not forget that, with a father who is a renowned diamond dealer, Valérie Messika is on the front line when it comes to acquiring the finest stones.

 

Glitter Fever necklace 15 yellow diamonds, white diamonds © Messika Paris

 

Back in calm waters with Van Cleef & Arpels and the Le Grand Tour collection, which continues this journey into the past, between the 16th and early 20th centuries, when young aristocrats toured Europe, from London to Naples.

 

The colors of the stones evoke the different ports of call, climates, landscapes, monuments, arts… On the Regina Montium necklace, two bewitching tourmalines, weighing 16.26 and 27.70 cts, combine their blue-green hues with the blue and mauve tones of sapphires, aquamarines and tanzanites.

 

Four flexible cuffs reproduce miniaturized panoramas (Venice, Rome, Florence and Naples) that seem watercolored by the precious stones. Characteristic of the Maison’s savoir-faire, the setting of the stones completely conceals the metal structure supporting them. These jewels evoke the mosaic bracelets brought back from Italy by young men. A true feat of craftsmanship.

 

Escale antique bracelet, pink gold, emeralds, tsavorite garnets, diamonds © Van Cleef & Arpels

 

Buccellati also revisits the theme of Italian mosaics.

 

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Haute Joaillerie presentations at Fashion Week were inspired by travel through time and space. From the Byzantine era to the seventies, from London to Naples, from the sky to the ocean or through the four seasons: look back on an enchanted week sailing through the ages.

 

In this first chapter (the second to be published in a few days), the jewelers invite us on a journey through the ages, from an aristocratic Grand Siècle enamored of ancient culture, praising the long view, to the carefree, flamboyant extravagance of the 1970s and 1980s.

29 cm Tie The Knot hair jewellery brooch, Carte Blanche, More is More Collection © Boucheron

 

This journey through time begins with Boucheron, transporting us to the acidulous pop era of the 80s. As always, the House surprises us with its incredible creations, featuring materials never before seen in jewelry (bio-acetate, magnesium, Murano glass…) and oversized “jewel-objects” saturated with color and invention.

 

Perched on a podium, designer Claire Choisne presents, like toys, an enormous brooch-jewel of hair, a mega-necklace in titanium and hyceram (a mix of ceramic and polymer) studded with diamonds and garnets, a lacquered and diamond-embellished pouch that magnetizes to a minidress, or a series of rings adorned with intrepid cubes and balls. Jewelry for fun!

 

Just An Illusion link necklace, Carte Blanche, More is More Collection © Boucheron

 

Extravagance too at Messika, where diamonds explode with light in a very seventies disco atmosphere! The glow of the sun in the middle of the night illuminates the Midnight Sun collection. Rings are set with huge white, yellow or pink diamonds, both pear-cut and heart-cut, to reinforce the surprise effect, like this breathtaking model where 2 heart-cut diamonds, white and pink, respectively 16.18 and 7.06 cts, face each other like you and me.

 

On the Fever Glitter necklace, 15 cushion-cut yellow diamonds are set on snow-set diamond squares, as if to further enhance their magnificent brilliance (over 87 cts in total). In this gleaming collection, the taste for extravagance is multiplied by the hypnotic effect. And let’s not forget that, with a father who is a renowned diamond dealer, Valérie Messika is on the front line when it comes to acquiring the finest stones.

 

Glitter Fever necklace 15 yellow diamonds, white diamonds © Messika Paris

 

Back in calm waters with Van Cleef & Arpels and the Le Grand Tour collection, which continues this journey into the past, between the 16th and early 20th centuries, when young aristocrats toured Europe, from London to Naples.

 

The colors of the stones evoke the different ports of call, climates, landscapes, monuments, arts… On the Regina Montium necklace, two bewitching tourmalines, weighing 16.26 and 27.70 cts, combine their blue-green hues with the blue and mauve tones of sapphires, aquamarines and tanzanites.

 

Four flexible cuffs reproduce miniaturized panoramas (Venice, Rome, Florence and Naples) that seem watercolored by the precious stones. Characteristic of the Maison’s savoir-faire, the setting of the stones completely conceals the metal structure supporting them. These jewels evoke the mosaic bracelets brought back from Italy by young men. A true feat of craftsmanship.

 

Escale antique bracelet, pink gold, emeralds, tsavorite garnets, diamonds © Van Cleef & Arpels

 

Buccellati also revisits the theme of Italian mosaics.

 

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Picture of Isabelle Hossenlopp
Isabelle Hossenlopp
Isabelle Hossenlopp is a journalist specialized in jewelry. A graduate of Sciences Po Paris, she has over 30 years of experience in the luxury industry, including 11 years at Chanel. She is also a consultant in editorial content and storytelling and teaches in luxury MBAs in management and communication schools.

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