For her grand return to the fashion scene after a six-year absence, Phoebe Philo has finally unveiled the first delivery from her eponymous London label. A minimalist ready-to-wear collection playing on the exclusive codes of luxury.
At 4.05pm on October 30, the “Philophiles” community received an e-mail announcing the launch of Phoebe Philo’s collection. This cohort, all fans of the minimalist, androgynous style of the former Céline artistic director, had been eagerly awaiting the designer’s return.
The designer, who has benefited from a minority stake in her own label from the LVMH group, offers a wardrobe in line with the strategy of the major luxury houses.
Philo lesson for Quiet Luxury reassessed
This first salvo in Phoebe Philo’s collection – which must number 1,500 items in all – shows a sort of Celine 3.0 woman stealing her man’s outfits to make them her own. The low-profile femininity seen in the designer’s 2000s collections gives way to a collection where masculine energy shines through like never before.
Alongside the long wool coats so dear to the designer’s heart, we find double-breasted suit jackets with streamlined shoulders, loose-fitting or capri pants, skirts, T-shirt dresses, blouses and other asymmetrical outfits, as well as knitwear.
Alongside these strong pieces, we find a whole range of accessories, from square-toed shoes (90s wedge versions, lace-up ankle boots and revisited chelsea boots) to fringed Club loafers, scarves, sunglasses in a “ski” spirit, and jewelry.
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Featured Photo: Phoebe Philo
