The last capital to host Fashion Week, Paris unveiled its silhouettes for spring-summer 2023. A look back at the Saint-Laurent, Koché and Balmain shows.
80’s at Saint-Laurent
If Anthony Vaccarello is rather known for his sexy outfits, his spring-summer 2023 collection has bet on more modest silhouettes. Appointment was given place du Trocadero for the usual fashion show Saint-Laurent, in the company of Hailey Bieber, Kate Moss or Zoë Kravitz. The artistic director was inspired by “Lamentation”, a 1930 piece by Martha Graham on the theme of mourning. Hence the dark and covering looks.
Long coats with very 80’s shoulders are worn over ankle-length tight dresses, sometimes transparent. The designer gives pride of place to leather and jersey, complemented by gold jewelry.
Digital at Koché
In the Palais Brongniart, Christelle Kocher presented a spring-summer 2023 collection inspired by technology. On an electronic music, the silhouettes advanced in front of a big digital wall where we could read on a Google search bar, the surrealist sentence “Do hoodies dream of beautiful sunrise?”
For this show, Christelle Kocher worked with Google ATAP to develop a hybrid collection between technology and material.
The collection, divided in two, first highlighted the beginnings of the Internet with perforated leathers reminiscent of the pixels of the first video games. The second part was more festive, with pants and tight dresses encrusted with rhinestones.
Festival at Balmain
At Balmain, the mood was one of sharing with the third “festival”, instead of the traditional fashion show of the house, which brought together more than 1000 fans. The event took place at the Jean-Bouin stadium and presented some 100 outfits. The material was at the heart of the matter with impressive effects in knitwear, rolled fabrics or even woven wood. Also noteworthy were the incredible drapes and the imposing platform shoes that will undoubtedly become the must-have accessory of the season.
The show opened with a projection of the singer Cher, who appeared in flesh and blood at the end of the show, joining Olivier Rousteing on stage.
Featured photo : © Stephane Cardinale – Corbis/Getty Images