For Watches & Wonders, the Parisian fashion house has chosen to expand its watchmaking universe with a collection inspired by board games and new iterations of its iconic J12, breaking free from convention.
A must-attend event in the world of fine watchmaking, the Watches & Wonders fair provides the perfect opportunity to showcase new releases and feats of ingenuity.
Historically linked to the world of fashion and accessories, Chanel nevertheless makes a major splash with a unique, playful jeweled piece, the Coco Game. Transcending the realm of watchmaking alone, this ultra-luxury chessboard has the merit of catching the eye and generating buzz ahead of the event.
This one-of-a-kind piece is part of a collection of fourteen models inspired by the world of play, ranging from board games to video games.
Chess and Tweed
At the heart of Chanel’s creative watchmaking vision lie the iconic codes of the House, and particularly Gabrielle Chanel. Under the guidance of its Design Studio, she takes on various forms: adecorative dial motif rendered in bas-relief or pixel art, a chess queen, or a 3D sculpture on a finely jeweled long necklace.
The key seems to be shaking off that overly serious vibe that can intimidate the younger generation and playing with the founder’s iconic image.
Indeed, Arnaud Chastaingt, Director of Chanel’s Watch Design Studio, has chosen to launch a brand-new collection titled Chanel Coco Game, inspired by the world of games. No fewer than fourteen timepieces thus echo the House’s signature codes—the line, black, and white.
The highlight of this collection—or perhaps its primary inspiration—is the Coco Game, which is first and foremost a chessboard set with over 110 carats of diamonds. It showcases the House’s exceptional craftsmanship, particularly its tweed-inspired diamond setting. The sole pawn bearing Gabrielle Chanel’s likeness is adorned with a dress entirely set with diamonds, which perfectly replicate the texture of this fabric—dear to Gabrielle Chanel and borrowed from the sportswear and menswear wardrobe—through a horizontal and vertical mesh pattern. This technique is set to be patented soon. The chessboard itself required no less than 900 hours of gem-setting.
J12 Unbound by Case Sizes
A true watchmaking icon, the J12 was unveiled in 2000. Embodied by a unique and minimalist vision, it was first released in black before expanding to a white version in 2023. However, it has consistently retained its material, which was avant-garde for its time: ceramic.
Seven times stronger than steel, it offers unmatched resistance to abrasion over time. Despite its strength, the ceramic of the J12 offers a surprising smoothness thanks to diamond-powder polishing.
After a version that swapped its traditional monochrome look for blue in 2025, the House’s iconic unisex timepiece continues its journey, with its sights set on the stars, entering a realm literally free from the constraints of case sizes this year.
Thus, two new sizes are making their debut: the 28mm and the 42mm.
In addition, the J12 Superleggera benefits from a more refined reinterpretation courtesy of the Chanel design studio. For the first time, the ceramic case of the J12 takes on a more casual look with a flexible black rubber strap, textured and edged like a grosgrain ribbon. In each case, we find what constitutes the very essence of the J12 collection, namely the balance of proportions and the sophistication of the finishes.
As for whether Chanel has what it takes to be among the great watchmakers, the answer lies in its creative process, with watches designed on Place Vendôme and assembled at the Chanel Watch Manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. Thus, to compete with the greatest watchmakers, Chanel seems to have found the solution: a subtle blend of exceptional craftsmanship and creativity, not to mention—given the gravity of the times—a touch of humor, a key factor in winning over younger generations.
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Featured Photo: © Chanel
