These are uncertain times for the luxury world, and brands remain under pressure to revive interest in their products, often by bringing in new designers. But this strategy carries risks : too radical a change could destabilize their loyal customer base.
After a decade of strong growth, major fashion houses such as Gucci, Chanel and Dior are now facing major economic challenges. The economic slowdown in China, combined with inflation in other regions, has dampened spending by high-end consumers : the global luxury goods market, estimated at $395 billion, is experiencing its lowest sales rates in years.
The quest for creative renewal
To counter this crisis, many luxury fashion houses have taken the bold step of appointing new designers. By 2025, the industry is witnessing a veritable “creative revolution”, as designers from smaller brands, such as Demna Gvasalia, former artistic director of Balenciaga, take over the reins of major houses like Gucci.
But unlike in recent years, the majority shareholders are pressuring luxury brands to recruit well-known and experienced profiles, who have already proven themselves “as number 2 or even as a manager,” as Sophie Abriat points out for Le Figaro. To be convinced of this, one need only look at the arrival of Sarah Burton, who went from the Kering stable as McQueen’s right-hand woman and then creative director to the LVMH galaxy at Givenchy.
However, the phenomenon of the “mercato” or “waltz of the creators”, as described in the press, has significantly accelerated since the hasty departure of Virginie Viard to Chanel in June 2024. The magazine Harper’s Bazaar has thus identified no less than twenty changes of artistic directors throughout the year 2024. Unprecedented!
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Featured photo : Loewe Fall-Winter collection 2025 by Jonathan Anderson © Loewe
