Fashion Week continues its world tour by landing in Milan. The previous London shows were tinged with sadness following the death of the Queen.
In London, the announcement of the death of Queen Elizabeth II has created a shock wave. Burberry and Raf Simons decided in the wake to cancel their shows. And even if other brands have maintained their program, the atmosphere was gloomy. What to create a contrast with the outfits of the fashion shows, rather marked, them, colors and sequins.
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Several designers played the game of homage with silhouettes or accessories reminiscent of the Queen’s style. This was the case, for example, at Halpern with a blue sheath-cape inspired by a 1957 outfit, at Erdem with a black ensemble embroidered with flowers or with a scarf in the models’ hair at Paul & Joe.
New talents
During the Fashion Week, took place in parallel the Fashion East spring-summer 2023. Led by Lulu Kennedy, at Mills Fabrica, this event was an opportunity to discover the new talents of the London scene.
Among them, Karoline Vitto made the rounds on social networks. The designer’s work is rooted in the body image she grew up with. “The way I grew up in Brazil had an impact on how I feel about my body and clothes now. Everything that comes back was part of my daily life back then – everyone showed their skin. The standard of beauty there was very different from what my friends and I were. People sell this idea of a Brazilian silhouette, but it’s not an accurate representation. I try to bring the reality” explains Karoline Vitto. She celebrates the material, draping and cutting almost directly on the body, to suggest without revealing too much.
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Michael Stewart, the Irish designer of the Standing Ground label, created 11 evening dresses: “There is a certain purity: a real focus on the silhouette and the cut. I think we’re so saturated with images and there’s a quiet power in what I’m offering. There’s ornamentation but there’s no total decoration,” he said of the show. The impeccably cut, jersey dresses follow the body and curves for a sublimated, captivating silhouette.
Inclusiveness
On the sidelines of Fashion Week, Condé Nast College of Fashion & Design director Nick Isles insisted he wanted to better promote diversity and inclusion in the fashion industry.
“We are looking to expand globally. Asia has been one of the big growth areas in the past and will be in the future,” Nick Isles commented to Xinhua magazine. “We’ve already had over 2,000 students from over 50 different countries. We are reaching people all over the world and that is a top priority. The growth will come both in terms of nationalities and number of students, but also in the types of courses we offer, both online and on campus,” he added.
For her part, Irish-Chinese designer Simone Rocha, who made her debut at London Fashion Week in 2010, said she wants to push the envelope with her new collection. “I’m really interested in femininity and masculinity. And I think that can come in different shapes, sizes and cultures. It’s really nice to be able to project that by sharing the collections in a very natural way,” she enthused.
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Featured photo : © Kendam
