François Arpels has set himself the challenge of breathing new life into Maison Korloff, while respecting its strong roots. A third-generation member of the family that founded Van Cleef & Arpels, naturally immersed in the world of gems and jewels since childhood, and an expert in strategy, he holds all the cards to energize the Parisian jeweler.
LUXUS+ caught up with him for a long and passionate chat.
LUXUS PLUS: Has jewelry always been your passion?
François Arpels: I could tell you that I’m like Obelix, who fell into the magic potion when I was a child! I had the good fortune and privilege of being born into a family called Arpels, which founded Van Cleef & Arpels in 1906 following the marriage of Estelle Arpels and Alfred Van Cleef. So I’m third generation. My father was Pierre Arpels, who was a visionary and strategist, designing for the House for several decades. With him, Van Cleef & Arpels innovated enormously, for example by creating the “Boutique” concept. As early as the 50s, my father realized that jewelry could no longer be designed the way it used to be, made-to-measure, like couture. A wind of youth and revolution was blowing through jewelry, and just as prêt-à-porter was born in fashion, Pierre Arpels invented a kind of “prêt-à-bijoux” with the Boutique. The Alhambra model was born at that time, with the success we all know. The perfume First, whose bottle design is based on the Valenciennes earrings, was launched at the end of the 70s. It was the first time a jeweller had created a fragrance, and a way of developing our reputation and offering women a first step into the world of Van Cleef & Arpels. I think about my father every day and often ask myself, “Am I making the right decision? What would he have done in my place?” He inspires me enormously in my decisions, especially at Korloff.
As for my personal career, after studying in Paris, I moved to New York where I had several experiences (Oscar Heyman, where I was trained in fabrication and setting, then Gol, where I was introduced to diamond cutting, and Christie’s with François Curiel) before returning to Van Cleef & Arpels New York. My return to Paris was painful, as my family had decided to sell Van Cleef & Arpels. I tried in vain to take over the company. If my first bereavement was the loss of my father when I was 14, the sale of Van Cleef & Arpels was my second. These difficult moments deeply structured my life path and guided my choices until I joined Korloff.
L+: After turning the page on Van Cleef & Arpels, what projects did you get involved in?
François Arpels: I then worked as a consultant for other family-run luxury houses in France, the United States and Asia on issues of intergenerational transmission, defining and supporting the implementation of their strategy. Then in 2015, I moved to India. This country rocked my childhood because my father used to go there to find wonderful stones, and it’s also from India that jewelers have drawn so much inspiration, such as Cartier’s Tutti Frutti styles and Van Cleef & Arpels’ “Fruit Salad”, the nickname we gave to this composition of engraved emeralds, sapphires and rubies. From there, I worked in Asia and the Middle East for 7 years, supporting brands in their strategy. When the Turin-based company Mattioli offered me a collaboration, I moved to Italy, where I still live. Mattioli is a major jewelry manufacturer, supplying Place Vendôme and American jewelers, and has also founded its own brand.
L+: How does the Korloff episode open?
François Arpels: Doing shadow management is exciting, as it allows you to learn more and more, with great agility of action and reflection. But I felt the need to invest myself in a particular brand because I could bring both strategic, rational and creative skills to the table. I spent a long time analyzing the opportunities on the market, and my attention was drawn to Korloff, whose history fascinated me. I already had a common thread in my head for repositioning the company while capitalizing on its international presence. Paradoxically, Korloff is almost better known abroad than in France, despite the fact that it was originally a Lyon-based company. So we had access to the global market, with points of sale and visibility. Secondly, we already had collections to offer, some of which I found particularly interesting. We were going to be able to capitalize on these to develop our design. Finally, Korloff was a reasonable size (a team of 22 people and 30 sales outlets worldwide). In terms of flexibility, agility and repositioning, this aspect was highly appreciable.
L+: Where does the name Korloff come from?
François Arpels: As you probably know, all great diamonds have a name. The House is named after a black diamond, the only natural black diamond of this size, 88 carats, known in the world. It was purchased by founder Daniel Paillasseur in 1978. You’ll notice the number 8, which recurs frequently in our story: 1978, 88 carats, 18 rue de la Paix (boutique address). The diamond was presented to him by a friend in the diamond trade who said to him one day, “I must show you something extraordinary. Open your hand and close your eyes”. And he placed the Black Korloff in the palm of his hand. 88 carats… he was totally fascinated by this stone. And he bought it! It took some nerve, in 1978, to buy an 88-carat black diamond… We don’t know the exact origin of the name, but this diamond is said to have belonged to a Russian family who fled at the time of the revolution with this famous diamond hidden in a pocket. We haven’t been able to trace this family, but that’s what we like, because our diamond remains shrouded in legend. We also don’t know whether this diamond was extracted from a mine or arrived in a comet; gemologists haven’t been able to determine its origin, and we love this mysterious aspect! The diamond magically reappeared in the hands of a trader who sold it to Daniel Paillasseur, who fell in love with the stone. The black diamond has always brought him good luck, and has marked every stage of the House’s history, right up to the present day.
L+: You developed Asia and the Middle East before expanding into France. In which markets are you leading the way today?
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Featured Photo: © Korloff
