Burberry and Gucci were undoubtedly the two most eagerly-awaited luxury brands of Fashion Week, London for the former and Milan for the latter. What they have in common, however, is that they have both lost some of their superbness, and that they both have crucial issues at stake.
Burberry and Gucci’s Spring/Summer 2025 shows were infused with the lightness of the 2000s, but the treatment differed: 90s grunge streetwear for the British House, and sexy Sixties elegance for the Florentine.
Daniel Lee and Sabato de Sarno were scrutinized by the entire fashion sphere, while Burberry had been ejected a few weeks earlier from the top 100 most valuable British companies – after 25 cloudless years – while Gucci, faced with the slowdown in the Chinese market, precipitated the Kering Group’s quarterly results into the abyss.
To win back the hearts of young people, without alienating their long-standing clientele, the two Houses have a secret weapon in common: making fashion rhyme with heritage.
For both designers have chosen to draw on the archives of their respective employers: outerwear for Burberry, leather goods and shoes for Gucci.
Between London’s National Theatre and Milan’s Triennale Museum, two rooms, two atmospheres.
Y2K spirit at every turn
The ultra-large, casual and no less sexy imagery of the 2000s known as “Y2K” continues to be emulated, particularly on pants and coats.
Sabato de Sarno, who has been at the helm of the Florentine fashion house for two years now, offers a wardrobe with an air of urban bohemian chic, with flashy or khaki hues as if straight out of some rave party. Or maybe it was the 1960s, judging by some of the futuristic dresses and cloche hats on show.
AtSexyness Y2K, both exposed lingerie and no-bra are resisting. Last season’s ultra-sheer fabrics are back in use, with pastel tones enhancing black lingerie pieces.
The decade of the 2000s is also expressed in a more unusual way with the reintroduction of the arm bracelet, itself conceived as a nod to the iconic Bambou bag, launched in 1947.
Burberry’s collections, too, have taken on a broader scope, as with its cargo pants. Unlike Gucci, which this season is adept at silhouettes in neon yellow, the British fashion house prefers to bring out its timeless sandy and beige hues, complemented by springtime or sunny hues such as lilac and orange. Like Gucci, the Y2K touch is found in the judicious use of military khaki. This proposal marks a clear break with the bold colors that Daniel Lee has been showcasing until now.
The British fashion house’s nostalgic show featured Agyness Deyne, the model with the most popular androgynous haircut of the 2000s. Tartan and trench coats were very much in evidence in this decade – thanks to the fast fashion of the early days – but this time they were played up for grunge, with obvious references to Nirvana frontman Kurt Cobain.
A documented reading of brand DNA
In addition to the burgundy-red Gucci Ancora, the leitmotif of Sabato di Sarno’s runway shows since his inaugural show exhumed from the House’s archives, the designer also revisited the world of the Bamboo bag, through jewelry and leather details, whether for total looks or driving gloves.
Gucci’s leather collections also include shoes, notably the famous bit moccasins. This equestrian paraphernalia can also be found in allover patterns on jackets, tops, skirts and hats. The House also offers a number of novelties, such as moccasin boots with the famous bit.
Finally, the House’s famous scarves can be worn as headbands for a retro, bohemian chic look. The bohemian spirit also inspires Daniel Lee at Burberry, with a collection that narrowly avoids the “cottagecore” trap with a streetwear twist. “I wanted to express an easygoing elegance. The creation is intrinsically British and the silhouettes are imbued with familiarity”, he commented.
True to the spirit of the House, Daniel Lee summons Britishness but with a touch of rurality. Here, kilts are transformed into pleated long skirts. Even the usually aristocratic ruffled blouse takes on a more sporty air. Indeed, despite the most capricious weather, English culture abounds in outdoor pursuits such as hunting, polo, cricket and gardening.
At Burberry, outerwear still reigns supreme. In addition to trench coats, parkas are given a new lease of life in silk poplin, with or without faux organza feathers. Elective affinities abound, with silk jackets, dresses and tops borrowing details usually found on coats by the equestrian knight brand.
In short, Daniel Lee and Sabato di Sarno deliver a playful score based on the elevation of basics. This mission is reflected in the title of the Florentine fashion house’s show, “Casual Grandeur”. Burberry opened the show to Amy Winehouse’s hit song “You Know That I’m No Good”, while Gucci concluded with “Non Voglio Mica La Luna” (it’s not like I’m asking for the moon).
Discover our plans Subscribe for 1€ Become an active member of the community of luxury leaders.
To continue reading this article, subscribe or log in to your account
Read also > Paris Fashion Week: Chanel returns to the Grand Palais
Featured Photo: © Gucci – Burberry
