[CHRONICLE] Are luxury brands killing subcultures?

Today, we look at a crucial question: do luxury brands, with their ever-increasing collaborations, nurture subcultures, or do they exploit and exhaust them? To answer this question, we’ll trace the mechanisms of luxury branding, the importance of subculture and the impact of two decades of cultural collaborations, to finally reflect on whether these practices enrich or impoverish the cultural ecosystems from which they draw.

 

Luxury brands have long thrived on rarity, exclusivity and storytelling. By creating captivating fictional universes, they have built empires blending craftsmanship and aspiration. However, the rise of digital platforms, as well as the personalization of their offerings, have transformed these brands into cultural players, often borrowing their authenticity and relevance from dynamic subcultures.

 

In 2023, Dior partnered with rapper Travis Scott to create a collection inspired by his Texan roots and hip-hop’s profound influence on modern culture. The collaboration featured oversized silhouettes, wild patterns and subtle nods to the rodeo aesthetic, operating a true cultural bridge between the refined art of Dior and the raw, energetic ethos of hip-hop. These partnerships illustrate how luxury brands blend their heritage with subcultural identities, often redefining their audience in the process.

 

What are subcultures and why are they important?

 

Subcultures, on the other hand, are distinct identities formed by groups sharing common interests or ideologies. They are characterized by an existence that often falls outside the dominant norms. They thrive on authenticity insofar as they are drawn from the reality experienced by real people. Their raw, unfiltered creativity challenges societal conventions and offers new perspectives, making them vital incubators for innovation in fashion, art and music.

 

This strong authenticity is in stark contrast to the commercial nature of luxury brands. When the latter engage with subcultures, the dynamic changes: authenticity risks becoming a commodity. This raises a pressing question: do these collaborations nurture subcultures or exploit them?

 

20 years of cultural collaborations

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Gauthier Boche
Gauthier Boche, VP and Global Head of Strategy at Marks, boasts 20+ years of expertise in FMCG, premium branding, and cultural activations for top brands like L’Oréal, Nespresso, and Moët & Chandon. A CELSA graduate, he blends strategic innovation with a passion for art, architecture, and urban culture.
Luxus Magazine Automne/Hiver 2024

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