Already heavily involved in its French and Italian supply chain, the Maison de la rue Cambon has just acquired a minority stake in Nuova Impala, the Italian specialist in calfskin leather for shoes and leather goods.
Chanel continues to invest in Made in Italy.
Three months after announcing its minority stake in silk manufacturer Mantero, the Italian press has revealed that the Maison de la rue Cambon has acquired 20% of the capital of tannery Nuova Impala, based in Santa Croce sull’Arno, near Pisa. The amount of the transaction is unknown.
Securing its supply chain
“Chanel continues to secure its supply chain in France and Italy by directly or indirectly supporting the company’s long-standing partners. This includes acquiring stakes in companies recognized for their expertise and know-how, such as Nuova Impala, a tannery with which we have been working for over ten years and in which we have been a minority shareholder since the end of 2024,” the group explained to Fashion Network.
Founded in 1958 by the Caponi and Vannucci families, Nuova Impala produces calf leather for the footwear and leather goods sectors. It has successfully developed its expertise in tanning to meet market requirements and expectations, particularly in terms of environmental and ethical standards.
With 37 employees, it generated sales of €22.2 million and a profit of €1.17 million in 2020.
Nuova Impala free to continue its collaborations
Among its customers, Nuova Impala counts big names such as Chanel. However, the luxury group has made it clear that its minority stake in the Italian tannery will not prevent the latter from continuing to work with all of its customers. This is always the case when the Maison de la rue Cambon becomes a shareholder or even acquires a supplier.
It has already been applying this approach to Made in France since 1985, when it began integrating workshops specializing in rare skills (embroidery, pleating, millinery, feather work, etc.) from the French industry into its subsidiary Paraffection.
It has therefore extended this philosophy to its Italian suppliers that have joined its fold.
Half of its production in Italy…
According to the Tuscan business daily t24, Chanel produces half of its global output in Italy… and is increasingly taking control of this production. It has a stake in or owns around 20 production units across the Alps.
In the leather industry, before Nuova Impala, Chanel had already acquired a stake in the Samanta tannery in 2019, an expert in printed and embossed leather based near Pisa, before acquiring the Milan-based Conceria Gaiera Giovanni in 2020, which specializes in smooth and supple goat, lamb, and calf skins.
In 2023, the Alsatian tanneries Haas, acquired by Chanel in 2018, and the Italian leather wholesaler Campelli became majority shareholders in the tannery Volfoni, a joint venture with Volpi Concerie, a specialist in vegetable tanning based near Pisa.
According to Fashion Network, Chanel has also invested in Blupell, a Venetian specialist in leather treatment and dyeing, and in 2024 acquired a stake in the Lombardy-based tannery Co.Fa.
Shoes and leather goods
Downstream, still in the leather sector, the group acquired four transalpine shoe manufacturers, namely Roveda in 2000, Gensi Group in Teramo in 2015, Ballin in 2020 and, finally, Grey Mer last March. In leather goods, Chanel acquired a 40% stake in manufacturers Renato Corti and Mabi International in 2019 (before finalizing the acquisition of the latter in 2023).
The House is also present in several Italian textile specialists, another major transalpine specialty. In 2020, the Piedmontese fancy yarn manufacturer Vimar 1991 and, in 2022, the Italian hosiery manufacturer Paima joined its subsidiary Paraffection.
And in May 2023, Chanel joined Brunello Cucinelli in acquiring a stake in Italian company Cariaggi Lanificio, which specializes in the production of high-end cashmere yarns and fabrics.
In 2021, the French fashion house also acquired a majority stake in FashionArt, its supplier specializing in the manufacture of high-end jeans and denim clothing. Finally, last March, it acquired 20% of the capital of Leo France, a Florentine specialist in costume jewelry and metal accessories for clothing, bags, and other leather goods.
Present in Italy since 1986, Chanel employed more than 2,500 people at the end of 2024 through its 29 subsidiaries, which are dedicated to manufacturing, sales, marketing, distribution, logistics, and more.
Read also > Chanel acquires stake in Italian silk manufacturer Montero
Featured photos: © Photo by Alexandra Mazilu on Unsplash
