Entitled “Icarus”, Schiaparelli’s inaugural Haute Couture Week fashion show was rich in references to the history of clothing. Under the creative impetus of Daniel Roseberry, officiating since April 2019 at the quintessentially surreal French House, the collection also managed to demonstrate both a certain humor and depth.
To summon the memory of the tutelary figures of Haute Couture, a proudly French specificity and exclusive club legally protected since 1945, Daniel Roseberry chose to entitle his show “Icarus”.
Spoiler: unlike the Greek myth in which the son of the architect of King Minos’ labyrinth – where the Minotaur hides – pays with his life for his desire to fly close to the sun, the House of Schiaparelli doesn’t burn its wings.
On January 27, under the golds of the Petit Palais in Paris’ 1st arrondissement, the imaginative designer staged one of his most successful shows, with Kendall Jenner.
Schiaparelli kicked off four days of excellence and savoir-faire, with no fewer than 28 Spring-Summer 2025 Haute Couture shows set to punctuate Parisian life until the evening of Thursday January 30.
Tribute to the greats of couture
Feathers made a few appearances here and there, starting with the invitation card, an envelope containing a sandy-colored plumage reminiscent of the phœnix, the name of the previous show. However, the outfit of our bird friends is not the focal point of this new Haute Couture show.
Perhaps the answer lies in the hidden meaning of these volumes and, above all, this outdated coloring, as if literally past. For once, Daniel Roseberry started from a color to find the silhouette, the opposite of his usual creative process. His Haute Couture collection was inspired by an antique dealer’s discovery of a batch of bows and ribbons, caught up in the war and never shipped to the big names in Parisian couture.
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Read also > Haute Couture Week: Schiaparelli offers a fireworks display from the outset
Featured Photo: © Schiaparelli
