Unveiled during the men’s spring-summer Fashion Week 2026 in Milan, Prada leather sandals sparked outrage in India. The brand is accused of having copied the design of shoes named Kolhapuri chappals, a traditional and artisanal shoe.
Back in last June. While Milan vibrates to the rhythm of the Spring-Summer Fashion Week 2026 dedicated to men, Prada, one of the most anticipated names in Italian fashion shows, presented a refined collection, light and delicately colorful, like a return to the roots. Between micro-shorts, straight jackets, rattan hats, knitted sweaters and elephant leg pants, the line included brown leather sandals that didn’t go unnoticed…
The sandals of discord
The artistic directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, accompanied by designer Paul Surridge who comes to strengthen the stylistic team of the male division, thus proposed flat leather sandals characterized by a strap on the forefoot and an entredoigt, both connected by a thin flange.
Classic in appearance, these shoes have sparked a wave of indignation in India. Indeed, the sandals developed by Prada are very similar to the Kolhapuri chappals shoes, which take their name from the city of Kolhapur. These traditional pieces made locally by about 5,000 artisans in Kolhapur and sold for just 10 dollars are very popular in the country. Entirely made by hand without nails or industrial glue and in buffalo leather, the Kolhapuri chappals have been worn for centuries by the Indians, daily or during events.
Seeing the Prada show, the Indian manufacturers of these sandals showed their anger, accusing the House of cultural appropriation and regretting that the brand did not mention the origin of these shoes. The president of the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce [editor’s note: a state in India where sandals are made] Lalit Gandhi said: “The collection includes shoe designs that closely resemble Kolhapuri sandals, a traditional handcrafted leather sandal that was granted GI status by the Government of India in 2019.”
Indignation on social networks
On social media, many people also commented on the images of the show. One can thus read on Instagram “Copy of Maharashtra”; “Learn to give credit where it is due. Enough is too much! Say that you were inspired by the humble Indian chappals of Kohlapuri”; “At least give credits to India” ; “No need to copy.. Don’t lie”.
So many critics who quickly pushed Prada to publish a statement, recognizing the origins of these sandals. “We recognize that sandals are inspired by traditional Indian handmade shoes, with a centuries-old heritage. We deeply recognize the cultural importance of this Indian know-how” said Lorenzo Bertelli, head of corporate social responsibility at the Italian fashion house, in a letter addressed to the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce.
“This is a proud moment for all of us. We now have a global audience” said Harshwardhan Patwardhan, founder of Chappers, a brand renowned for its Kolhapuri chappals, to Global Indian. “It is the most beautiful testimony of the timeless work of our craftsmen for centuries. But inspiration must be accompanied by respect: mere merit is not enough; collaboration is essential for the long-term success of both.”
In addition to the recognition of the design and tradition that stem from these shoes, industry representatives called for reflection on collaborations with local people or remuneration, a sign of respect towards local culture. Especially since it would be harmful for luxury brands to be boycotted by Indian consumers. According to the recent report India: the next luxury hotspot? from the Kearney firm, the Indian luxury goods market is evolving and could reach 12 billion dollars by 2028, compared to 7.74 billion in 2023.
Featured photo: © Prada
