After launching online, the luxury brand from the former creator of Chloé and Celine is now investing in a small handful of selected department stores and concept stores in the United States, Europe and Asia-Pacific.
Good old-fashioned recipes applied to a still young brand, supported by an experienced designer…
This is the strategy behind the Phoebe Philo brand, launched a year ago by the 51-year-old designer of the same name. For her new Maison, the designer secured the support of LVMH, through a minority stake. The group had confidence in Phoebe Philo’s talent: she had successfully directed the style of her Maison Celine from 2008 to 2018.
While the priestess of discreet luxury has until now relied exclusively on an e-commerce distribution model, since last spring she has been developing her physical distribution. This should enable her Collection B, scheduled for early 2025, to make a real impact.
First “drop
For her big comeback on the fashion scene after a six-year absence, Phoebe Philo launched a first “drop” of a few strong pieces and accessories online, on her e-commerce site alone, sold in ultra-limited quantities – no more than 100 pieces per model – and over a short period of time. All this with a high price positioning: between 2600 euros and 3200 euros for a suit jacket, 750 euros to 3500 euros for knitwear items, 2500 pounds sterling for the small Gig Bag or 6500 pounds sterling for the XL tote bag…
All of which is enough to make a lasting impression and effectively establish the desirability of the brand, which was initially offered online.
In recent months, however, the brand has expanded its distribution, focusing on wholesale, a classic distribution method for many luxury brands.
Last April, Phoebe Philo tested this network by signing a first agreement with Bergdorf Goodman’s New York flagship on Fifth Avenue, to offer a hundred models (ready-to-wear, bags and accessories) from its first two collections.
“Phoebe Philo is undoubtedly one of the most visionary designers in the history of fashion,” explainedYumi Shin, the department store’s merchandising director, in astatement at the time, expressing pride ‘in offering Phoebe’s uncompromising, studied and extremely luxurious creations’. “These selections feature extraordinary designs of impeccable execution that will become timeless wardrobe essentials, such as the Gig bag, Milanese double-breasted jacket, Shrunk Bomber and various tailored pants,” she anticipated.
Yumi Shin also praised “Phoebe’s perfect understanding of modern women, her unwavering commitment to quality and her unique vision”, and “her innovative approach to a non-seasonal offering”.
First successful trial
After this first, probably conclusive test, Phoebe Philo invested last September in six other very selective physical points of sale, concept stores or department stores, in Europe (Dover Market in London and Paris, 10 Corso Como in Milan) and the United States (Maxfield and Neiman Marcus in Los Angeles and Webster in South Beach, Miami).
“At the very high price point at which Philo is positioned, this physical presence makes sense given the continued importance of touch, feel and fitting for luxury buyers… and the well-known challenges faced by online retail in selling luxury goods,” emphasized the Fashion Network media at the time.
In November, the Maison will take a new step forward by investing in the Asia-Pacific market, both online and via physical wholesale partners.
Setting course for the Asia-Pacific region
The website, phoebephilo.com, will begin delivering Phoebe Philo collections to Australia, Hong Kong, Singapore, Japan and South Korea.
Fans of the brand from these countries will also be able to buy her designs at a few select outlets: in Japan, at Dover Street Market Ginza and Isetan Shinjuku in Tokyo; in Australia, at Parlour X in Sydney; and in South Korea, at Shinsegae International in Seoul.
However, the British designer said she would continue her “direct-to-consumer approach” and remain true to her philosophy of “being independent, governing and experimenting on her own terms”.
Clearly determined to pursue a minimalist approach to both product and distribution, Phoebe Philo has not yet revealed any plans to launch a boutique of her own…
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Read also > Phoebe Philo unveils a minimalist and luxurious first collection
Featured Photo: © Phoebe Philo
