Milan Fashion Week : the best-of

The third week of Fashion Week concluded on February the 26th in Milan. The capital of Italian fashion never disappoints and offered its share of highlights. Let’s review together four standout shows.

And there you have it, the third one. The fashion marathon is nearing the final stretch. The fashion sphere gathered in the Lombard capital from February 20th to 26th. While in recent months, many Houses have played musical chairs with their artistic direction, this Fall-Winter 2024-2025 Fashion Week is an opportunity for designers to unveil their vision. After his appointment in December at Tod’s, Matteo Tamburini took his first steps. Sabato de Sarno and Peter Hawkings, respectively at Gucci and Tom Ford, return after successful first collections, showing they have what it takes to lead these iconic Houses. Meanwhile, Giorgio Armani, an icon of Italian fashion, has the privilege of focusing on poetry with a Emporio Armani collection that’s all about softness.

New Direction for Gucci

Delivering a successful first collection is a significant challenge, but following it up is arguably just as crucial. In the case of Sabato de Sarno, the fashion sphere seems to be captivated by his vision for Gucci’s style. The Italian House beautifully confirms its change in direction. Following the departure of Alessandro Michele, who for eight years offered opulent and extravagant fashion, Sabato de Sarno was entrusted with the artistic direction of the flagship brand of the Kering group. For this Fall-Winter 2024-2025 collection, the Italian creates a rupture with the codes of winter wardrobe. Coats are worn with bare legs and dresses opt for transparency. In terms of color, guests witnessed a parade of monochromatic silhouettes, from mustard to sky blue to champagne. Regarding material choices, the designer aimed to bring a touch of dreaminess by working delicate lace and sparkling embroideries. Gucci doesn’t forget its ties to the equestrian world and proves it with the numerous variations of riding boots seen on the models’ feet. While the Italian House is rather known for its highly desirable handbags, it’s not excluded that it could position itself at the forefront of the thigh-high boots trend next season.

Tod’s : Essence of Italian Style

This Milan Fashion Week also hosted the debut runway show of Matteo Tamburini for Tod’s. For this occasion, the successor to Walter Chiapponi opted for a tram depot where the runway follows the line of the rails. In terms of clothing, everything focuses on the essentials. The play of proportions and materials gives rise to wearable silhouettes, certainly not devoid of attention to detail. Brown, gray, petrol blue… The color palette is decidedly wintry and translates perfectly onto oversized trench coats or straight pants. The overall look emphasizes a casual style where elegance seems inherent in every piece. Matteo Tamburini hasn’t forgotten to honor Tod’s craftsmanship when it comes to shoes. He offers a modern reinterpretation of the Gommino moccasin, an iconic piece of the Italian brand, adding leather fringes in red. The couture house’s expertise is undeniable, but with Matteo Tamburini at the helm, Tod’s finds a new contemporary breath while celebrating its heritage.