LVMH Prize 2023 : The jury’s choice

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There are only nine of them left. Nine talented personalities competing in the tenth edition of the Grand Prix des Jeunes Créateurs de Mode of the luxury group. On June 7, only one will succeed Steven Stokey Daley as the winner of the LVMH Prize, under the great glass roof of the Fondation Vuitton.

 

Each year, the LVMH Prize rewards a designer who is particularly noteworthy for his or her talent, selected by a jury of artistic directors from the group’s various companies. It is supplemented by the Karl Lagerfeld Special Prize, which each year highlights young fashion school graduates.

 

For this tenth edition, 22 talents were preselected for the semi-final, out of 2,400 candidates.

 

A European and international selection

 

But today, there are only nine left, from 8 countries! With profiles from Italy, the UK, France and Ukraine, Europe is well represented. There are no less than six talents if we count one of the members of the duo from the Canadian brand Paolina Russo.

 

Jamaica made a remarkable entry into the competition via the designer Rachel Scott (Diotima). The United States, Canada and Japan complete this creative world tour.

 

France is represented by Burc Akyol, a Turkish-born designer who has worked in the studios of Dior, Balenciaga and Ungaro. Founder of the eponymous semi-couture house, his creations offer a dialogue between the Middle East and the West, all in purity and sensuality.

 

Across the Channel, British designer Aaron Esh, a graduate of London’s prestigious Central Saint Martins fashion school, has seized upon the codes of women’s fashion to offer unisex collections through his eponymous brand.

 

Italy, a mecca for European craftsmanship, is represented this year by two candidates. Veronica Leoni has worked for Jil Sander, Céline and Moncler before founding her own brand, Quira. Her label has already made a name for itself in recent years, both in New York and in Milan. Wool is particularly important to her, to the point of using it in all her collections.

 

For his part, Luca Magliano has been modelling at Milan Fashion Week since 2019 with his brand Magliano. The minimalist design of his unisex collections gives them a chic yet provincial look.

 

Ukraine is also represented by Julie Pelipas. A former director of Vogue Ukraine and consulting creative director for other brands, she founded her responsible label Better in 2019. As the name suggests, her brand is an ode to the creative reclamation that is upcycling.

 

A rising star of New York fashion with his brand Luar, the American of Dominican origin Raul Lopez has succeeded in seducing celebrities thanks to his it-bag Ana and his collections with an opulent and chic style. The designer is no stranger to success, as he is behind Hood By Air, a pioneering brand in luxury streetwear, co-founded in 2006.

 

Finalist for the Woolmark Prize 2023. Canadian designer Paulina Russo launched her eponymous brand in 2020, before being joined in 2022 by French designer Lucile Guilmard. Together they design surprising and colourful sportswear pieces from recycled materials.

 

The first Jamaican ambassador in the competition, Rachel Scott, founder of the women’s fashion brand Diotima, highlights the value of manual work, particularly through her delicate crochet pieces.

 

Finally, Satoshi Kuwata from Japan is the only representative of Asia in this high-profile selection. Having travelled between Kyoto, Paris, Milan and London, the designer behind the Setchu brand is interested in the structure of the garment, in the image of his inspirations born from the art of origami. A technical vision that does not prevent him from designing collections adapted to everyday use.

 

Criteria of excellence

 

In the words of Delphine Arnault, the CEO of Dior, a member of the jury, these nine finalists embody “the cultural diversity, the enhancement of traditional craftsmanship and the creative audacity that characterise this selection”.

 

In addition to Delphine Arnault, eight artistic directors from the group’s Houses are responsible for choosing between them: Jonathan Anderson (Loewe), Maria Grazia Chiuri (Dior Women), Nicolas Ghesquière (Louis Vuitton), Marc Jacobs, Kim Jones (Dior Men and Fendi Women), Nigo (Kenzo), Stella McCartney and Silvia Venturini (Fendi).

 

Executive members of the LVMH group such as Jean-Paul Claverie (advisor to Bernard Arnault) and Sidney Toledano (CEO LVMH Fashion Group) complete this committee of experts.

 

The members of the 2023 jury, unchanged from 2022 © LVMH

 

Each member of the jury was already able to vote in March for their ten favourite collections, presented by the 22 semi-finalists during a physical showroom.

 

The first criteria for selecting the winners of the LVMH Prize and the Karl Lagerfeld Special Prize are the rules of the competition, which are open to all young designers from around the world.

 

However, two prerequisites are necessary: to be between 18 and 40 years old and to have already created at least two ready-to-wear collections, whether for women, men or unisex, or even all three at the same time.

 

In addition, there are qualitative criteria based on creativity, originality, technicality and quality of execution. Not forgetting innovation, with an emphasis on sustainable and circular production.

 

As Delphine Arnault said when announcing the semi-finalists, “they are all driven by a resolutely innovative vision, and also show great stylistic maturity in their work. Many of them put the culture and craftsmanship of their home countries at the centre of their creative approach.”

 

She added that “the challenges of eco-responsibility are also major, through the use of innovative or recycled materials, through reflection on a more local and virtuous production system.”

 

A springboard for the talents of tomorrow

 

Created in 2013 by the LVMH Group, the Young Fashion Creators Prize, open to designers from all countries, meets the Group’s and its Houses’ sponsorship commitment to young creation.

 

In ten seasons, the LVMH and Karl Lagerfeld Awards have revealed designers and brands as diverse as French designers Marine Serre (2017 winner) and Simon Porte Jacquemus (2015 Special Prize), American designer Virgil Abloh (2015 finalist), Georgian designer Demna Gvasalia (2015 finalist), British designer Grace Wales Bonner (2016) and Canadian designer Vejas (2016 Special Prize).

 

Virgil Abloh © LVMH

 

Virgil Abloh, designer of the Off-white brand – who died in November 2021 – had been appointed artistic director of Louis Vuitton’s men’s collections in March 2018 while Demna Gvasalia, designer of the Vêtements brand, has been artistic director of Balenciaga since 2015.

 

More recent editions have featured no less promising designers such as South Africa’s Thebe Magugu (winner 2019), Albania’s Nensi Dojaka (winner 2021) and Britain’s Steven Stokey Daley (winner 2022). Due to the pandemic context, the 2020 edition was cancelled but the scholarship was redistributed.

 

Steven Stokey Day, winner of the LVMH 2022 Prize © LVMH

 

The winner of the LVMH Prize receives a prize of 300,000 euros. The winner of the Karl Lagerfeld Special Prize will receive 150,000 euros.

 

In addition, in order to make young designers aware of environmental issues in their creation and production processes, each winner will be entitled to specific support as well as a financial grant (20,000 euros and 10,000 euros) to acquire fabrics from Nona Source, the circular economy platform set up by the LVMH group.

 

However, the support provided by LVMH to these creative talents is not only financial. The two winners of the joint awards receive personalized mentoring for one year by the group’s teams.

 

This support touches on various pillars of the distribution and management of a luxury brand, such as sustainable development, communication, intellectual property and the legal aspects of a company, as well as marketing, manufacturing and financial management.

 

Young graduates of selected fashion schools have the opportunity to join the creative team of one of the group’s companies for one year. This will provide them with a solid foundation to develop their brand in a calm and sustainable way or to enter the fashion world.

 

The suspense will end on June 7.

 

Finalists competing for the LVMH Prize and the Karl Lagerfeld Special Prize 2023

 

Burc Akyol (Burc Akyol), men’s, women’s and unisex fashion, France

Aaron Esh (Aaron Esh), menswear, UK

Satoshi Kuwata (Setchu), unisex collections, Japan

Veronica Leoni (Quira), womenswear, Italy

Raul Lopez (Luar), menswear, womenswear and unisex, USA

Luca Magliano (Magliano), menswear, Italy

Julie Pelipas (Better), womenswear, Ukraine

Paolina Russo and Lucile Guilmard (Paolina Russo), womenswear, France and Canada respectively.

Rachel Scott (Diotima), womenswear, Jamaica

 

 

Read also > LVMH reports strong rebound in China, slowdown in U.S. in first quarter

Featured photo : © LVMH[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row njt-role=”not-logged-in”][vc_column][vc_column_text]

There are only nine of them left. Nine talented personalities competing in the tenth edition of the Grand Prix des Jeunes Créateurs de Mode of the luxury group. On June 7, only one will succeed Steven Stokey Daley as the winner of the LVMH Prize, under the great glass roof of the Fondation Vuitton.

 

Each year, the LVMH Prize rewards a designer who is particularly noteworthy for his or her talent, selected by a jury of artistic directors from the group’s various companies. It is supplemented by the Karl Lagerfeld Special Prize, which each year highlights young fashion school graduates.

 

For this tenth edition, 22 talents were preselected for the semi-final, out of 2,400 candidates.

 

A European and international selection

 

But today, there are only nine left, from 8 countries! With profiles from Italy, the UK, France and Ukraine, Europe is well represented. There are no less than six talents if we count one of the members of the duo from the Canadian brand Paolina Russo.

 

Jamaica made a remarkable entry into the competition via the designer Rachel Scott (Diotima). The United States, Canada and Japan complete this creative world tour.

 

France is represented by Burc Akyol, a Turkish-born designer who has worked in the studios of Dior, Balenciaga and Ungaro. Founder of the eponymous semi-couture house, his creations offer a dialogue between the Middle East and the West, all in purity and sensuality.

 

Across the Channel, British designer Aaron Esh, a graduate of London’s prestigious Central Saint Martins fashion school, has seized upon the codes of women’s fashion to offer unisex collections through his eponymous brand.

 

Italy, a mecca for European craftsmanship, is represented this year by two candidates. Veronica Leoni has worked for Jil Sander, Céline and Moncler before founding her own brand, Quira. Her label has already made a name for itself in recent years, both in New York and in Milan. Wool is particularly important to her, to the point of using it in all her collections.

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There are only nine of them left. Nine talented personalities competing in the tenth edition of the Grand Prix des Jeunes Créateurs de Mode of the luxury group. On June 7, only one will succeed Steven Stokey Daley as the winner of the LVMH Prize, under the great glass roof of the Fondation Vuitton.

 

Each year, the LVMH Prize rewards a designer who is particularly noteworthy for his or her talent, selected by a jury of artistic directors from the group’s various companies. It is supplemented by the Karl Lagerfeld Special Prize, which each year highlights young fashion school graduates.

 

For this tenth edition, 22 talents were preselected for the semi-final, out of 2,400 candidates.

 

A European and international selection

 

But today, there are only nine left, from 8 countries! With profiles from Italy, the UK, France and Ukraine, Europe is well represented. There are no less than six talents if we count one of the members of the duo from the Canadian brand Paolina Russo.

 

Jamaica made a remarkable entry into the competition via the designer Rachel Scott (Diotima). The United States, Canada and Japan complete this creative world tour.

 

France is represented by Burc Akyol, a Turkish-born designer who has worked in the studios of Dior, Balenciaga and Ungaro. Founder of the eponymous semi-couture house, his creations offer a dialogue between the Middle East and the West, all in purity and sensuality.

 

Across the Channel, British designer Aaron Esh, a graduate of London’s prestigious Central Saint Martins fashion school, has seized upon the codes of women’s fashion to offer unisex collections through his eponymous brand.

 

Italy, a mecca for European craftsmanship, is represented this year by two candidates. Veronica Leoni has worked for Jil Sander, Céline and Moncler before founding her own brand, Quira. Her label has already made a name for itself in recent years, both in New York and in Milan. Wool is particularly important to her, to the point of using it in all her collections.

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Victor Gosselin
Victor Gosselin is a journalist specializing in luxury, HR, tech, retail, and editorial consulting. A graduate of EIML Paris, he has been working in the luxury industry for 9 years. Fond of fashion, Asia, history, and long format, this ex-Welcome To The Jungle and Time To Disrupt likes to analyze the news from a sociological and cultural angle.

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