Louis Vuitton: A fashion show dedicated to a new gypset feminity

On Monday October 2, Maison Louis Vuitton presented a steamy Spring-Summer 2024 collection, all elegance and femininity. A rare highlight: its artistic director, Nicolas Ghesquière, received a standing ovation. Environmental activists, however, attempted to disrupt the event.

Nicolas Ghesquière unveiled his new collection at the future site of the very first Louis Vuitton hotel, at 103/111 Avenue des Champs-Elysées.


Breaking with the designer’s usual style, color and volume were the order of the day, offering a feminine elegance of the finest effect without ever falling into formal boredom.


A proposal in line with the short, leggy wardrobe trend observed throughout Fashion Week, but with a welcome singularity.


A new bohemian femininity


Renaissance is definitely the order of the day, if Gucci’s Ancora show is anything to go by, as is Ferragamo’s advertising campaign in collaboration with Florence’s Uffizi Palace. The inspiration of the Italian Quattrocento shines through in puffy outfits, wavy hair and aristocratic stature.


Nicolas Ghesquière, artistic director of the women’s collections for almost ten years, unveiled a new vision of the Louis Vuitton woman.


More joyful, feminine, sophisticated and slightly retro, this creative proposition bends the neck of Quiet Luxury and its muted hues, as well as androgyny, which here only shows through in oversized tops.


Here, materials become vaporous and take to the open seas, both in terms of volume and through stripes with a nautical spirit.


In a gypset spirit – a contraction of gypsy, bohemian and jet set – shirts, midi skirts and dresses gain in amplitude, while belts are worn on the hips.


© Louis Vuitton

This season, there’s no doubt about it, comfort is de rigueur, but unlike Gen Z, Louis Vuitton succumbs to it without ever sacrificing style.


© Louis Vuitton

The looks play on contrasts in the same outfit: Slim versus Oversize, with leather maxi bombers worn with mini-skirts, or slim pants complemented by voluminous tops and slim-fitting jackets.


The dresses are in fact the result of “layering”, or more precisely, a play of superimposed silk petticoats in gaudy colors.


The frock coat – Nicolas Ghesquière’s signature piece since his Spring-Summer 2018 runway show – is back again. This time, in monochrome black and white.


The colors are satiny and festive, while the details are gourmand. The ubiquitous stripes are reminiscent of all kinds of tangy treats, from candy canes to berlingots.

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Featured Photo: © Louis Vuitton

Picture of Victor Gosselin
Victor Gosselin
Victor Gosselin is a journalist specializing in luxury, HR, tech, retail, and editorial consulting. A graduate of EIML Paris, he has been working in the luxury industry for 9 years. Fond of fashion, Asia, history, and long format, this ex-Welcome To The Jungle and Time To Disrupt likes to analyze the news from a sociological and cultural angle.

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