After prioritizing comfort during the pandemic period, the lingerie market is picking up steam with sexy. But beware, it’s not so much about conforming to a validating outside gaze as it is about pleasing themselves above all. And alluring no longer passes only under the filter of feminism: it is also redefining beauty standards in favor of Plus Size.
On February 10, American model Amelia Gray, who was noticed in The Kooples’ winter campaign and on the latest Chanel and Jean-Paul Gaultier catwalks, was seen on the streets of New York showing off her visible Valentino underwear.
The little outfit sported on social media, an incandescent bralette with organza velvet ribbons complemented by silk chiffon shorts, revealing ivory lace legs, is not only an extract from Alessandro Michele’s inaugural fashion show for the Italian fashion house: it is representative of a new femininity where underwear is revealed in broad daylight, highlighted by the spring-summer 2025 fashion shows.
This “boudoir” trend – which Lena Mahfouf has even capitalized on for her latest Parisian pop-up store – is one of the key lessons learned from the first partnership between the technology company Tagwalk and the Salon International de la Lingerie. Organized by WSN, the latter was held in Paris from January 18 to 20, on the sidelines of the Salon Interfilière.
Gloomy outlook in France and brighter prospects in the United States
Over the first ten months of 2024, sales of women’s lingerie in France fell by 1.8% in volume to 2.08 billion euros, according to Kantar data for the Salon International de la Lingerie. The rationalization of spending continues. The women’s footwear market – estimated at €333 million – is experiencing an upturn (+6.5% on a comparable basis). While socks continue to dominate the market, tights and knee-highs are gaining ground (+4%).
With regard to women’s daywear lingerie, bras, bustiers and sports bras account for 57.7% of spending, an increase of 1.79% compared to 2023. But above all, the loungewear and nightie market (10% of lingerie spending) is proving particularly dynamic.
The French market, the cradle of hosiery, is the anchor point chosen by Maison Lejaby to revive since its acquisition last May by a Franco-Indonesian duo. The French brand of fine lingerie with corset-making expertise, founded in 1930, has also retained its design studio near Lyon. According to its new CEO, Xavier Martin, the aim is to place greater emphasis on innovation and novelty. “Demand is still there and the brand is highly respected, but it will take two to three years to regain the confidence of the shops,” he said.
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