The Place Vendôme and its surrounding area lit up with a thousand carat jewels during June Fashion Week. Diamonds, precious stones and even pearls, back in vogue, enchanted these days of Haute Joaillerie presentations. Exploiting light and shadow, the infinite palette of nuances, shapes and stone sizes, jewelers brought their brilliant imaginations to bear.
Chapter I – The spell of color
Pomellato‘s original approach is to move from shadow to light, evoking the duality of Milan, with an industrial, rigorous side and a luminous, colorful, “Italian” side. The 51 pieces in The Dualism of Milan collection are divided into two parts, one monochrome and the other flamboyantly colorful. In the first, on the Planetario and Galleria necklaces, dark blue-gray or midnight-blue spinels set in diamond pavé recall the night skies of Milan seen from the Planetario, or the octagonal dome of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. In the second, color explodes on a breastplate of 236 spinels (365 carats) or on other necklaces set with tourmalines, tanzanites, spinels, peridots… many in “baroque cut”, i.e. barely polished and retaining their original shape. The generous gold links typical of Pomellato are there to bring light and volume.
Opals from Australia, spinels from Tanzania, emeralds from Colombia, sapphires from Sri Lanka, garnets, turquoise and many other colorful stones have inspired Maison Fred to pay tribute to its founder, Fred Samuel, in its Monsieur Fred Ideal Light collection. After spending his childhood in Argentina, he returned to France, to the Riviera, where everything reminds him of the light, warmth, radiant hues and waves of his native country, to which he is deeply attached. Four flamboyant sets evoke plant essences and palm trees (emeralds), the intense blue panorama of sky and ocean (sapphire, lapis lazuli, rock crystal), the carnival costumes of the Montserrat district of Buenos Aires (turquoise, opals, green and blue tourmalines), the sensuality of the tango (red spinels, spessartite mandarin garnets, intense pink rubellites). The new Monsieur Fred Ideal Light Haute Joaillerie collection pays homage to this signature love of light.
Buccellati continues to celebrate its centenary. After publishing a superb heritage book in 2021 (A Century of Timeless Beauty – Ed Assouline), the Milanese House unveiled a heritage exhibition in Venice this spring. During Fashion Week, Buccellati presented a short collection featuring the codes of its inimitable style: gold engraving, two golds, tulle entirely re-drilled by hand, a bestiary inspired by the shape of baroque pearls, cocktail rings, long Ombelicale sautoirs, cuffs with delicious colored cabochons. Beyond the mastery of the goldsmith’s work, the colors of the stones are extraordinary, both dense and soft, deep and luminous.
In the second opus of its dazzling Midnight Sun collection, Messika, still inspired by the theme of a festive night, this time abandons the swirling lights of the nightclub atmosphere for that suspended moment when night gives way to the promise of day. “I have magical memories of parties right up to the end of the night, when you leave the dancefloor to find the first rays of sunlight,” confides Artistic Director Valérie Messika, who wanted to explore this singular duality of moments. Playing on contrasts, exploring chiaroscuro, she imagined sets in two versions of gold that oppose and respond to each other.
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Featured photo : © FRED
