Hair ornaments are increasingly present in haute joaillerie collections. As detached elements of larger sets, they are emblematic of the metamorphosis of jewelry, a trend that is making a strong comeback. Tiaras and tiaras are giving way to this new, more sober, lighter style, favored by the happy few. Here’s a look back at the haute joaillerie presentations at Fashion Week in January 2024.
Modern princesses, whether they run a country, a company or simply manage their image, all have one concern in common: they want jewelry that’s light, easy to wear and transformable to suit the occasion. In Asia, the United States or the Gulf States, where tiaras are popular, they no longer want heavy, stacked pieces. What they are looking for, over and above the beauty of the stones, which they do not renounce, are delicate adornments that will sublimate an evening. They are enchanted by a refined tiara with a detachable ribbon, foliage or feather… Their desires were fulfilled by jewelers during Paris Fashion Week.
Jewelry is part of adornment, it follows fashion
The Roaring Twenties had already introduced headbands and aigrettes, which emphasized the new bob cuts with their diamond ribbons. By the 1920s, tiara designs could be removed and worn as brooches or hair motifs. Graceful diamond lace tiaras gave way to line tiaras, pencil-thin but resplendent, with a simple motif or a single center stone.
As modernity calls for ever greater purity and sobriety, hair ornaments can be disassembled and reassembled as the mood takes them.
Flashes of light in the hair
Chaumet, nicknamed the “jeweler of head jewels” because of the many tiaras it has designed throughout its history, has presented Un Air de Chaumet, a collection entirely dedicated to hair ornaments and brooches.
Broches détachées de la tiare Plumes d’Or © Chaumet
Each piece is inspired by the lightness of birds, their aerial ballets, their wind-swept feathers. The feathers of a bird of paradise wrap around the ear of a scrolled earcuff. Gold and diamond swallows sit on the hair, while a winged tiara separates into two brooches.
Histoire de Style, The Power of Couture © Boucheron
At Boucheron, where couture inspiration dominates, buttons escaped from a breastplate sting the hair with their moon-like glow, attached to a black ribbon. More imposing, two sparkling epaulettes become a tiara. Long, tapering diamond ferns, featuring embroidery, can be worn alternately as brooches or hair ornaments, thanks to a clever clasp system.
Ode to lightness
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Read also > HAUTE JOAILLERIE: A FAST-GROWING AREA FOR LUXURY DIVERSIFICATION
Featured Photo : © Boucheron
