Fashion Week: at Chanel, tweed goes couture and tutti frutti

For its Spring-Summer 2025 Haute Couture show, Chanel opts for a smiling posture and brightly colored tweed suits. Conceived before the recent arrival of Matthieu Blazy, this collection proves, once again, that the Creative Studio, in charge of artistic direction regency, has all the makings of the greats.

A triumph despite absence

On the first three silhouettes, the trained eye can barely make out a few watercolor lines on the chest of the immaculate tweed suits. Then, as the imperial and sepulchral music plays, the neutral classicism finally gives way to an explosion of bright, cheerful colors. It’s the perfect remedy for the bad weather that’s been blowing on luxury as much as on a France long deprived of sunshine.

Due to Matthieu Blazy’s late promotion, the Chanel show was once again staged without an artistic director. Instead, the in-house creative studio tasked with ensuring a smooth transition between him and Virginie Viard, worked wonders to ensure the show went ahead.

This creative constraint forced the Maison de la rue Cambon to revisit its archives as it celebrates 110 years of Couture this year, making it the true doyenne of French Haute Couture houses still in business.

Sober infinity

Two intertwined C’s, quite simply.

For fashionistas and marketers the world over, this emblematic Chanel acronym is a universal language.

It was this simplified logo that served as the backdrop for the show’s scenography in the glass nave of the Grand Palais. A raised white metal structure in the shape of a double C, created by set designer Willo Perron and transformed here into a symbol of infinity.

An opportunity for the Maison de couture to remind us that, despite the passing of Gabrielle Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld, and the prolonged absence of a superstar artistic director, the brand has stood the test of time and continues to fascinate.