This summer, the big luxury houses didn’t take a break from their creative mercato. Paul Andrew arrives at Sergio Rossi, David Koma takes the reins at Blumarine, John Galiano leaves Margiela, while Chanel is still looking for a successor to Virginie Viard, who left at the beginning of June. The designer waltz continues, highlighting the new expectations placed on current artistic directors.
The summer of 2024 was marked by major upheavals in the major luxury houses. Dries Van Noten ‘s final show at Paris Fashion Week left a lasting impression. Chanel, still without a successor to Virginie Viard after her departure in the spring, remains at the center of attention.
These changes highlight the current dynamics of the luxury industry, where houses seek to reinvent themselves in response to market evolutions, new consumer expectations, and the need to remain competitive in an ever-changing sector.
Between departures and appointments
The summer of 2024 saw notable changes in the creative directions of several major fashion houses.
Most recently, Georgian David Koma took the helm at Italian fashion house Blumarine, renowned for its romantic, feminine style. Succeeding Walter Chiapponi, who left Tod’s after just one season, the newcomer is known for his sculptural silhouettes and bold aesthetic under his eponymous label launched in London in 2009. His first collection isexpected in spring 2025.
At Sergio Rossi, the appointment of Paul Andrew as Creative Director marks an important turning point for the Italian brand, recently acquired by the Lanvin Group. Paul Andrew, formerly with shoemaker Salvatore Ferragamo, is recognized for his mastery of craftsmanship and modern approach to design, crucial assets in revitalizing Sergio Rossi’s image. This “new direction for the brand is perfectly in line with our mission to preserve its heritage while satisfying the changing tastes of our clientele” said Eric Chan, CEO of Lanvin Group. At the end of June, the Group changed the artistic director of the Lanvin fashion house, which was in search of a relaunch. Peter Copping (ex-Louis Vuitton and Balenciaga) has been entrusted with this arduous mission.
Tom Ford, meanwhile, saw the departure of Peter Hawkings, who had been appointed Creative Director in 2023 following Tom Ford‘s owndeparture in May 2023. Hawkings, a long-time Ford collaborator, had the task of maintaining the brand’s heritage and identity after the departure of its founder. His departure after less than a year took the industry by surprise, leaving a key position vacant at one of the most influential houses in the sector.
Givenchy was rocked by the departure of Clare Waight Keller, who had taken over as artistic director in 2017 following the departure of Ricardo Tisci. Clare Waight Keller, who notably dressed Meghan Markle for her wedding, had helped reorient the brand towards a more modern, minimalist style. Her departure marks the end of a transition period for Givenchy, which will now have to find a new creative leader to continue its evolution.
Finally, after ten years of loyal service, John Gallianois preparing to leave Maison Margiela. With an effective departure expected this autumn, the designer has reportedly chosen not to renew his contract , despite repeated requests from Renzo Rosso, CEO of parent company OTB Group. While a drunken public intoxication and anti-Semitic remarks had been the undoing of his 14-year flame at Dior, the man may well return to the LVMH ecosystem. According to sources close to him, Fendi could well be his next destination. The House, which bears the creative imprint of 52 years with Karl Lagerfeld, is struggling to convince on its women’s collections, entrusted to Kim Jones in 2020, who is still excelling at Dior Men.
Chanel: a strategic position still vacant
Discover our plans Subscribe for 1€ Become an active member of the community of luxury leaders.
To continue reading this article, subscribe or log in to your account
Read also > Lanvin: Peter Copping as artistic director, the hope of a revival
Unsplash
