Maria Grazia Chiuri, artistic director of the House of Dior, has unveiled a collection in homage to a figure unjustly persecuted throughout the ages: the witch.
On September 26, silhouettes of millennial feminism, almost ghostly, took to the Dior catwalk, once again present at the Jardin des Tuileries.
This spring-summer 2024 collection, with its punk accents, brandished purity, duality and femininity as its standard-bearers.
But it also aimed to illustrate the excesses of patriarchy, with NOT HER, a monumental video work by committed Italian artist Elena Bellantoni, as the backdrop to the show.
The witch: allegory of the powerful woman
For her show, Maria Grazia Chiuri summoned the image of the witch, misunderstood and persecuted to the stake.
Here, however, there was no black magic, but rather white magic, purifying and invigorating, as seen in the naturalistic motif of medicinal herbs on the dresses in the collection.
The Mille-fleurs print, like the very recent “Plan de Paris” (Paris City Map), was more enigmatic and darker than usual, suggesting spider webs.
This spring-summer 2024 collection is a cross between a slim-fitting suit and a looser, androgynous look.
Here, the sober shades echo the palettes of Quiet Luxury, that discreet luxury dominated by black, white and beige.
On stage, it’s a skilful alchemy of shapeless jackets and pants and fluid silhouettes of ankle-length pleated skirts and dresses as light as spiders.
With their frayed sleeves and torn lace, the silhouettes convey a subtle punk vision – somewhere between Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen – echoing the show’s spirit of feminine rebellion.
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