Christian Dior Couture: Maria Grazia Chiuri takes her bow

As expected, the LVMH group’s fashion house has confirmed Maria Grazia Chiuri’s departure from the women’s collections. Her replacement has not yet been named, but many expect Jonathan Anderson, recently appointed to Dior Homme, to take over the women’s line as well. We look back on the flawless career of the first woman to design collections for the iconic fashion house.

It comes as no surprise. On Thursday, May 29, Christian Dior Couture finally confirmed what everyone in the fashion world already knew. In a statement, the LVMH-owned fashion house announced that “Maria Grazia Chiuri has decided to step down as creative director of women’s haute couture, ready-to-wear and accessories.”

Jonathan Anderson at the helm?

It had been known for several months that the days of Dior’s first female artistic director were numbered. But while this news is now official, the second rumor continues to circulate: Northern Irish designer Jonathan Anderson, who took over from Kim Jones at Dior Homme last April, could also be taking charge of the women’s line. This would be another first for the fashion house, as the designer would be the first to oversee both the men’s and women’s collections.

In any case, guests at the presentation of the cruise collection in the gardens of the Villa Albani in Rome on May 27 had already understood that this dazzling show would be her last. They gave Maria Grazia Chiuri a standing ovation as a farewell. It was a beautiful farewell for the 61-year-old designer, who was born in the Italian capital.

Remarkable growth

In a statement released on May 29, Delphine Arnault, CEO of Christian Dior Couture, “warmly thanks Maria Grazia Chiuri, who, since her arrival at Dior, has accomplished a formidable job with an inspiring feminist vision and exceptional creativity, all imbued with the spirit of Monsieur Dior, which has enabled her to design highly desirable collections.” In her eyes, “she has written an essential chapter in the history of Christian Dior, contributing significantly to its remarkable growth and being the first woman to lead the creation of women’s collections.”

According to calculations by HSBC, Dior couture sales rose from €2.2 billion in 2017, one year after Maria Grazia Chiuri’s arrival, to €9.5 billion in 2023.

After thanking Bernard Arnault, CEO of LVMH, for the trust he placed in her and his daughter Delphine for her support, Maria Grazia Chiuri said she was “particularly grateful for the work accomplished” by the House’s teams and workshops. “Their talent and expertise have enabled me to realize my vision of committed women’s fashion, in close dialogue with several generations of female artists. Together, we have written a remarkable chapter of which I am immensely proud,” she said.

A long and distinguished career

After studying at the Istituto Europeo di Design in Rome, Maria Grazia Chiuri began her career at Fendi, where she was in charge of leather goods. In 1999, she joined Valentino, where she remained for 17 years. She was appointed co-artistic director alongside Pierpaolo Piccioli in 2008, when Valentino Garavani retired.

In 2017, she was appointed artistic director of Christian Dior’s women’s collections.

Maria Grazia Chiuri will have time to leave her mark, particularly her feminist legacy, on the history of the fashion house.

Arriving after the controversial John Galliano, who remained from 1996 to 2011, and after the relatively brief three-year stint of Raf Simons, Maria Grazia Chiuri spent almost a decade—nine years—at the artistic helm of Dior Women. This exceptional tenure has been highlighted by the press, which notes that most of her peers generally do not stay for more than five years.

Feminist cause

Dior, led by another woman, Delphine Arnault, assisted in general management by Benedetta Petruzzo since last October, has therefore taken a turn that resolutely honors the so-called weaker sex…