From saddlery to Hermès bracelet: Hermès has extended its reach beyond its historic saddlery expertise. Under the inspiration of its CEO Robert Dumas in the 1930s, the House invented a timeless icon: the legendary anchor chain motif, which gave rise to sophisticated jewelry. This success, however, also gave rise to counterfeits…
When Hermès was founded in 1837, it first established itself as a craftsman ofexcellence in saddlery and harness. In its early days, the House was renowned for manufacturing harnesses, bridles, saddles and other equestrian equipment to meet the needs of riders and horse owners of the day. Each piece is designed with precision and care.
This expertise in working with complex parts quickly enabled Hermès to develop in-depth knowledge of metal alloys and mechanical part design techniques. Over time, the House has evolved by applying these skills to other fields. The same techniques used to fashion sturdy parts for equestrian equipment have been applied to finer, more sophisticated creations, notably the Hermès bracelets.
The origins of the anchor chain motif
In 1937, Robert Dumas, then CEO of Hermès and known for his influence on the House’s style, notably with the creation of the future Kelly bag, had a revelation. Observing the boats on the Normandy coast, he was captivated by the shape of their mooring chains. These served as the inspiration for what would become the iconic Hermès bracelet, the Chaîne d’ancre.
In 1938, Hermès launched the first silver bracelet in this style. Almost 80 years later, this model is available in five link widths, from very small to very large. Whether it’s the Glénan, the double tour, woven in fabric or smooth metal, with an H clasp or an anchor chain motif, Hermès bracelets are a must-have, combining sophistication and discretion. The House’s universe now also includes bags adorned with drawn chains, a design that continues to inspire Pierre Hardy in his contemporary creations.
Hermès bracelets worthy of protection
The Hermès Chaîne d’ancre bracelet is protected by copyright for its distinctive originality. Although this model is inspired by existing maritime chains, the judges recognized in 2023 that Hermès had made significant modifications to the size, materials and design. The layout of the links is perpendicular, unlike traditional ship chains, which are flared. This level of personalization was deemed sufficient to justify design protection.
The Cour de Cassation upheld the decision of the lower court, which had convicted the counterfeiter of unfair competition and parasitism for marketing an entire range of jewelry imitating this iconic model. To guarantee the authenticity and appraisal of haute couture jewelry, a number of platforms offer precise appraisals and valuations. To discover authentic second-hand Hermès bracelets, 58 Facettes is an assured resource.
Founded by Alexis Blez and Eric Thevenet, the digital platform specializes in buying and selling expertly certified luxury and second-hand jewelry. Following a fund-raising round in 2023, 58 Facettes has developed an instant appraisal serviceusing artificial intelligence. Called EVA, this tool is based on the analysis of a database comprising over a million pieces of jewelry, and enriched on a daily basis.
So you can be sure of the authenticity of the jewel of your dreams!
Read also > Hermès boosts net profit despite slowing Asian luxury market
Featured Photo: © Hermès
