Pierpaolo Piccioli presented his first Haute Couture collection for Balenciaga in the gardens of the Cité internationale universitaire in Paris. This highly anticipated debut show marks a break from the Demna era and a confident return to the foundations laid by Cristóbal Balenciaga, where the architecture of the garments and couture craftsmanship take center stage once again.
It was undoubtedly the most closely watched event of this Haute Couture Fashion Week. Following Jonathan Anderson’s remarkable debut at Dior and Matthieu Blazy’s second couture collection at Chanel, all eyes were on Pierpaolo Piccioli. His appointment as creative director of Balenciaga marks a new chapter for the house, following nearly a decade during which Demna established a radical aesthetic blending streetwear, exaggerated volumes, and references to popular culture. While that vision profoundly shaped Balenciaga’s identity, Piccioli has now chosen to move away from it to reconnect with the very essence of the house.
Less is more
Rather than relying on a barrage of spectacular effects, Pierpaolo Piccioli has chosen to put the silhouette back at the heart of his creative vision. In his work, clothing no longer seeks to provoke: it sculpts the body through cut, volume, and the precision of couture craftsmanship. This approach naturally leads him to revisit the archives of Cristóbal Balenciaga, the undisputed master of construction and textile innovation.
Yet this collection is not merely an exercise in heritage. The designer infuses it with the romantic sensibility that shaped his career at Valentino: an emotional, generous, and deeply human form of couture, where color interacts with volumes of great purity.
Read also > Fall-Winter 2026-2027 Haute Couture Fashion Show: at Chanel, Matthieu Blazy transforms couture into a story
Featured photo : © Balenciaga
