How did a seemingly simple dress become a fashion icon? The wrap dress, or emblematic wrap dress, was launched in 1974 by designer Diane Von Fürstenberg. Here’s a look back at the success of this dress, renowned for its ability to satisfy every body type and for its elegant, feminine and timeless style. Not forgetting its inspirational designer, who was the subject of a fascinating documentary on Disney +.
It could be in every woman’s dressing room. For 50 years, the wrap dress has been seen as a symbol of independence and freedom. And this triumph is closely linked to the success story of its founder, the great Diane Von Fürstenberg. It was in 1974, two years after creating her eponymous brand, that the designer launched the wrap dress. While her supple, feminine jersey dresses had already won over New York and the magazines, notably Vogue, her wrap dress was a veritable tidal wave.
With its adjustable tie waist, V-neck and neckline, flowing yet body-hugging lines, comfortable jersey fabric and colourful prints, the dress sold over a million units in less than 24 months. Flattering and feminine on the figure, this subtly sexy, ultra-comfortable wrap dress is perfect for any figure and suits a multitude of styles, hence its popularity. Over the decades, it has come in a plethora of shades and patterns, while its price remains affordable compared with luxury houses. Today, the Diane Von Fürstenberg wrap dress has become the emblem of the sartorial feminist.
“When I designed it, I didn’t know it was going to be such a phenomenon! I just wanted to make a simple little dress that I could wear anywhere. And it turned out to be exactly what women wanted at the time. It was the 1970s… Women were going to work but they didn’t want to have to dress like men: the wrap dress had become a symbol of power and independence, because it was sexy and sophisticated. What’s interesting is that it gave me my independence! Her success paid all my bills and allowed me to be the woman I wanted to be. And it seems to me that she has also played this role for entire generations…” explained Diane Von Fürstenberg in an interview with Vanity Fair.
Diane Von Fürstenberg, an iconic business woman
Iconic pieces from the world of fashion are often imbued with the story of their creator. This is true of Diane Von Fürstenberg’s wrap dress.
Diane Von Fürstenberg (née Halfin) was born in Brussels in 1946. She went off to boarding school in Switzerland to complete her studies. In 1969, she married Prince Egon von Fürstenberg, who shared her passion for fashion. Two children and a life as a wealthy jet setter later, the couple separated. She kept her ex-husband’s name, which gave her a certain notoriety.
After a brief stint in Paris working for an advertising and image agency, Diane immersed herself a little more in the world of couture in Italy, where she learned the basics of fabrics, including jersey. In 1970, she moved to New York and founded her own fashion label two years later. Her dresses, designed by a woman for women, were quickly adopted, before the big breakthrough of her wrap dress in 1974. “Take jersey: male designers don’t like it. It’s not a fabric that makes you dream when you look at it! But all women designers have used jersey” she told Vogue in an article published in June 2024.
Building on her success, the designer diversified her activities into accessories, shoes, cosmetics, home decoration and perfumes. At the same time, she was a leading figure in the New York nightlife scene, rubbing shoulders with the artistic and financial elite of her generation, from Liza Minnelli to Mick Jagger.
A model of resilience
Yet despite these triumphant years, Diane Von Fürstenberg experienced one financial difficulty after another. “Like everyone else, I’ve had moments of success and failure, of uncertainty in a changing environment, and I struggled a lot when I was away from fashion in the 80s. I felt like I’d lost my identity… even though I was sure I’d be back one day. But our failures teach us good lessons, and we have to accept them” she explains in her interview with Vanity Fair.
Although this shady period was not all restful, his ambition led him to relaunch his brand in 1997. The wrap dress was reissued. “When I relaunched, I was afraid that everyone would call me a has-been, and I wanted to prove that my first success had not been a mistake”.
This victory was a renaissance for the designer. In 2001, she fell in love again and married businessman, producer and teleshopping specialist Barry Diller. She went on to have her own show a few years later.
A designer recognised by all
Admired for her outspoken commitment to women’s causes, applauded for her iron-fist-in-a-velvet-glove approach to running a business despite the odds, and influential for her style and vision of fashion, Diane Von Fürstenberg continues to inspire women and men around the world. Her dresses have been worn by many celebrities, from Michelle Obama to Madonna and Jessica Alba.
In 2005, she received a Lifetime Achievement Award from the CFDA, of which she was elected president in 2009. In 2020, she was awarded the Legion of Honour.
Several exhibitions have paid tribute to her, such as the Journey of a Dress presentation in Los Angeles showcasing her wrap dress (2014) and Diane Von Fürstenberg Woman Before Fashion at the Musée de la Mode et de la Dentelle in Brussels, which ended earlier this year.
The documentary Diane Von Fürstenberg: Woman in Charge, broadcast on Disney+ from 25 June, tells the story of this businesswoman’s career and life with great accuracy. And for good reason: who better to tell the story of Diane Von Fürstenberg, who reveals herself with humility, seriousness and enthusiasm alongside the testimonies of those who knew her?
Read also > A BRIEF HISTORY OF LUXURY: THE LOUIS VUITTON TRUNK, A FLAT BOX THAT’S A HIT
Featured photo : Diane von Fürstenberg © Disney +
