{"id":151455,"date":"2024-10-24T12:58:39","date_gmt":"2024-10-24T10:58:39","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/luxus-plus.com\/?p=151455"},"modified":"2024-10-24T17:48:21","modified_gmt":"2024-10-24T15:48:21","slug":"kering-weeps-hermes-laughs","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/luxus-plus.com\/en\/kering-weeps-hermes-laughs\/","title":{"rendered":"Kering weeps, Herm\u00e8s laughs <img class=paid src=\/paid.png>"},"content":{"rendered":"<h4>Plagued by Gucci and the Chinese market, Kering posted another sharp decline in third-quarter sales and sharply revised down its annual operating profit forecasts. Herm\u00e8s, on the other hand, continued its fine momentum from July to September.<\/h4>\n<p><!--more--><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>The contrast is striking: while Kering has just announced, on the evening of October 23, results in free fall for the third quarter, Herm\u00e8s lifted the veil, the following day, on a still dynamic activity between July and September&#8230;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Sales for the group headed by Fran\u00e7ois-Henri Pinault, which was weighed down by its flagship Gucci and the Chinese market, fell by 15% on a reported basis and 16% on a comparable basis to \u20ac3.8 billion in the third quarter of 2024. This is still less than the 12% decline (on a comparable basis) expected by analysts.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>But the fall in its operating income recurring in 2024 is likely to be even more problematic. \u201cFollowing the sharper-than-expected slowdown seen in the third quarter\u201d, and \u201cgiven the high level of uncertainty surrounding the evolution of consumer demand for luxury goods over the coming months\u201d, Kering warned, via its press release, that its operating income recurring for the 2024 financial year \u201ccould be in the region of 2.5 billion euros\u201d. This is almost half the figure for 2023 (4.7 billion euros), which was itself down on 2022 (5.589 billion euros).<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>And it would mean that second-half operating profit would fall by 50% to 1 billion euros.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h2>Herm\u00e8s in good shape<\/h2>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>For its part, Herm\u00e8s presented a very different picture for its third quarter. Its sales continued to \u201cgrow\u201d (+11% at constant exchange rates and +10% at current exchange rates) to 3.7 billion euros.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>\u201cAll regions reported growth, despite a particularly high basis for comparison in Europe and Asia-Pacific. This is also the case for all its divisions, with the exception of Watches.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Over the first nine months, consolidated sales rose by +14% at constant exchange rates (11% at current exchange rates) to 11.2 billion euros.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Axel Dumas, managing director of Herm\u00e8s, congratulated \u201call our employees\u201d on this \u201crobust third-quarter performance\u201d, and thanked our customers for their loyalty.&#8221; \u201cStrengthened by the singularity of its model, Herm\u00e8s continues to recruit and invest for the long term.\u201d In September, the saddler opened its twenty-third leather goods factory in Riom, in the Puy-de-D\u00f4me region of France.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Meanwhile, at Kering, CEO Fran\u00e7ois-Henri Pinault explained that his group was implementing \u201cwith discipline and determination\u201d \u201caprofound transformation\u201d of its \u201cgroup and particularly at Gucci, at a time when the entire Luxury Goods sector is facing unfavorable market conditions\u201d. \u201cOur performance has been significantly affected in the short term\u201d, he noted.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h2>A hint of hope for Gucci<\/h2>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>In more detail, Kering was particularly affected by the continuing poor health of its flagship House, Gucci.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>In the third quarter, sales plunged by -26% on a reported basis (-25% on a comparable basis) to 1.6 billion euros.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Sales in the directly-operated network fell by 25% on a comparable basis, with \u201cthe House particularly impacted by market conditions, especially in Asia Pacific\u201d.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>The fall in wholesale sales was even more spectacular (-38% on a like-for-like basis), which Kering explained as \u201cdue to the strategy of rationalizing this distribution channel and the difficult market context\u201d.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_151463\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-151463\" style=\"width: 819px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-151463 size-large\" title=\"426483481_793635819468403_4382550630930861647_n\" src=\"https:\/\/luxus-plus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/426483481_793635819468403_4382550630930861647_n-819x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"819\" height=\"1024\" srcset=\"https:\/\/luxus-plus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/426483481_793635819468403_4382550630930861647_n-819x1024.jpg 819w, https:\/\/luxus-plus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/426483481_793635819468403_4382550630930861647_n-240x300.jpg 240w, https:\/\/luxus-plus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/426483481_793635819468403_4382550630930861647_n-768x960.jpg 768w, https:\/\/luxus-plus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/426483481_793635819468403_4382550630930861647_n-1229x1536.jpg 1229w, https:\/\/luxus-plus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/426483481_793635819468403_4382550630930861647_n-480x600.jpg 480w, https:\/\/luxus-plus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/426483481_793635819468403_4382550630930861647_n-750x938.jpg 750w, https:\/\/luxus-plus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/426483481_793635819468403_4382550630930861647_n.jpg 1638w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 819px) 100vw, 819px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-151463\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u00a9Gucci<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Kering did, however, sound a number of hopeful notes.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Armelle Poulou, Kering&#8217;s CFO, explained to the press that the new offer marked by an \u201caesthetic turnaround\u201d, conceived by Sabato de Sarno, the new artistic director since the beginning of 2023, was \u201c very well received\u201d by the existing customer base. Armelle Poulou admitted, however, that \u201cthe challenge\u201d was \u201cto continue to intensify the recruitment of new customers\u201d, but that this was \u201calso linked to the economic context and the drop in traffic\u201d.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>The Kering press release emphasized that \u201cthe renewal of the Leather Goods category, with the introduction of numerous new products at the end of the quarter\u201d, was \u201cwell under way\u201d.<br \/>\nAccording to Armelle Poulou, Gucci has also beefed up its communications, with, for example, its latest campaign highlighting its very luxurious Blondie handbag and the House&#8217;s heritage.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Finally, in early OctoberGucci announced the appointment of Stefano Cantino as General Manager. Already Deputy Director, he will replace Jean-Fran\u00e7ois Palus, a close associate of Fran\u00e7ois-Henri Pinault, at the beginning of 2025.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>By the end of the year, the organization chart will be further enriched with&#8221;new senior executives to head communications \u201d, according to Armelle Poulou.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h2>Bottega Veneta and Kering Eyewear, the two exceptions<\/h2>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>With the exception of Bottega Veneta, Kering&#8217;s other Houses also performed poorly in the third quarter.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>At Bottega Veneta, sales rose by +4% as reported (+5% on a comparable basis) to 397 million euros, boosted in particular by its Leather Goods and directly-operated network (+9% on a comparable basis), buoyed by double-digit growth in North America and Western Europe. Wholesale activity, however, declined by 10% on a comparable basis.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>By contrast, Yves Saint Laurent sales fell by 13% on a reported basis (-12% on a comparable basis) to 670 million euros, with its wholesale channel itself down 20% on a comparable basis.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>To regain momentum, the House is planning a number of leather goods launches between now and the end of the year.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>The Other Houses were also dragged down in the third quarter (-15% on a reported basis and -14% on a comparable basis to 686 million euros), also weighed down by Wholesale, down 28% on a comparable basis. However, Balenciaga &#8216;s leather goods lines recorded \u201cvery good performances\u201d, while the second show underAlexander McQueen &#8216;s new identity was \u201cvery enthusiastically received\u201d and\u201cBrioni continues to grow\u201d. The performance of the Jewelry Houses was \u201cresilient\u201d.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Still modest and recent, the Kering Eyewear and Corporate division stood out with revenues up 32% on a reported basis to 440 million euros. On a like-for-like basis, however , growth was limited to +4%, as the segment \u201calso includes Kering Beaut\u00e9&#8217;s business, which was boosted by a significant contribution from Creed\u201d.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h2>Significant slowdown in Japan<\/h2>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Geographically, Kering reports \u201ctrends by region\u201d, which are \u201cdeteriorating compared to the second quarter, particularly in Asia-Pacific and Japan, which is experiencing a significant slowdown\u201d.<br \/>\nActivity in North America and Western Europe is contrasted according to the Houses.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>According to Fran\u00e7ois-Henri Pinault, the Group&#8217;s \u201cabsolute priority\u201d now \u201cis to create the conditions for a return to healthy, sustainable growth, while further strengthening the control of\u201d its \u201ccosts and the selectivity of\u201d its \u201cinvestments\u201d. \u201cWe have the strategy, the organization and the talent to achieve these objectives,\u201d he said.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h2>Herm\u00e8s still in good shape<\/h2>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<br \/>\n<br \/>\n\t\t<section data-elementor-type=\"section\" data-elementor-id=\"113401\" class=\"elementor elementor-113401 elementor-101048\" data-elementor-post-type=\"elementor_library\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-6ff873b e-flex e-con-boxed e-con e-parent\" data-id=\"6ff873b\" data-element_type=\"container\" data-e-type=\"container\" data-settings=\"{&quot;background_background&quot;:&quot;gradient&quot;}\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"e-con-inner\">\n\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-c7d49f1 e-con-full e-flex e-con e-child\" data-id=\"c7d49f1\" data-element_type=\"container\" data-e-type=\"container\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-7c73fc5 elementor-widget elementor-widget-spacer\" data-id=\"7c73fc5\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" 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community of luxury leaders.<\/p>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-7cccfb5 elementor-widget elementor-widget-image\" data-id=\"7cccfb5\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"image.default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1280\" height=\"680\" src=\"https:\/\/luxus-plus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/luxus-abonnement-papier.webp\" class=\"attachment-full size-full wp-image-137641\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/luxus-plus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/luxus-abonnement-papier.webp 1280w, https:\/\/luxus-plus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/luxus-abonnement-papier-300x159.webp 300w, https:\/\/luxus-plus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/luxus-abonnement-papier-1024x544.webp 1024w, https:\/\/luxus-plus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/luxus-abonnement-papier-768x408.webp 768w, https:\/\/luxus-plus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/luxus-abonnement-papier-480x255.webp 480w, https:\/\/luxus-plus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/luxus-abonnement-papier-750x398.webp 750w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1280px) 100vw, 1280px\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t<br \/>\n<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Read also &gt; <a href=\"https:\/\/luxus-plus.com\/en\/kering-persistent-difficulties-at-gucci-and-a-second-profit-warning-for-the-luxury-group\/\">Kering: persistent difficulties at Gucci and a second profit warning for the luxury group<\/a><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Featured photo : \u00a9 Kering<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Plagued by Gucci and the Chinese market, Kering posted another sharp decline in third-quarter sales and sharply revised down its annual operating profit forecasts. Herm\u00e8s, on the other hand, continued its fine momentum from July to September.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":457,"featured_media":151458,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_seopress_titles_title":"%%post_title%% %%sep%% %%sitetitle%%","_seopress_titles_desc":"Kering underperformed in the third quarter of 2024, while Herm\u00e8s continued to post strong growth.","_seopress_robots_index":"","_seopress_robots_follow":"","_seopress_robots_imageindex":"","_seopress_robots_snippet":"","_seopress_robots_primary_cat":"none","_seopress_robots_breadcrumbs":"","_seopress_robots_freeze_modified_date":"","_seopress_robots_custom_modified_date":"","_seopress_robots_canonical":"","_seopress_social_fb_title":"","_seopress_social_fb_desc":"","_seopress_social_fb_img":"","_seopress_social_fb_img_attachment_id":0,"_seopress_social_fb_img_width":0,"_seopress_social_fb_img_height":0,"_seopress_social_twitter_title":"","_seopress_social_twitter_desc":"","_seopress_social_twitter_img":"","_seopress_social_twitter_img_attachment_id":0,"_seopress_social_twitter_img_width":0,"_seopress_social_twitter_img_height":0,"_seopress_redirections_value":"","_seopress_redirections_enabled":"","_seopress_redirections_enabled_regex":"","_seopress_redirections_logged_status":"both","_seopress_redirections_param":"","_seopress_redirections_type":301,"_seopress_analysis_target_kw":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[24,24713,5868],"tags":[23653,23216,23000,23007,22419,23639],"class_list":["post-151455","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-business","category-news-en","category-retail","tag-abonnes-en","tag-hermes-en","tag-kering-en","tag-khol-en","tag-news-en","tag-resultats-trimestriels-en"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/luxus-plus.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/151455","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/luxus-plus.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/luxus-plus.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/luxus-plus.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/457"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/luxus-plus.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=151455"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/luxus-plus.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/151455\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/luxus-plus.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/151458"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/luxus-plus.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=151455"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/luxus-plus.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=151455"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/luxus-plus.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=151455"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}