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This season, the champion of Proven\u00e7al chic<\/strong><\/b> sets up its first boutique outside the traditional American department store circuit<\/strong><\/b>, on which the brand has relied until now in the country. Saks and Nordstrom were its preferred distributors.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n The strengthening of the brand’s own distribution network in Emily’s native land seems to mark a turning point with this first address on Uncle Sam’s doorstep, in the style of \u201cJacquemus…in Soho\u201d<\/strong><\/b>. With a view to accelerating the number of physical store openings<\/strong><\/b>, the Parisian fashion house<\/strong><\/b> founded by the eponymous designer is now looking for potential shareholders – a first.<\/strong><\/b><\/p>\n <\/p>\n At the intersection of Spring Street and Wooster<\/strong><\/b> Street, Jacquemus’ first directly-operated address on the other side of the Atlantic<\/strong><\/b> is an impressive sight.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n With its exposed bricks characteristic of the Federal style built in 1818<\/strong><\/b>, the two-storey house housing the outlet is reminiscent of the district’s preferred industrial-inspired loft cladding.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n Its opening on the weekend of October 18<\/strong><\/b> drew a packed crowd of young people aged 20 to 30<\/strong><\/b>, the core target of the designer who, for the past 15 years, has been sharing his vision of contemporary fashion with as many people as possible<\/strong><\/b>. All this support salutes the designer’s authenticity and joie de vivre, distilled from the sunshine of his native Provence.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n In the newly inaugurated boutique, collections of clothing, accessories, bags and shoes for<\/strong><\/b> both<\/strong><\/b> men<\/strong><\/b> and women<\/strong><\/b> are displayed over 270 m\u00b2 (2,906 sq. ft.).<\/p>\n <\/p>\n In addition to straw hats and ultra-short dresses, the brand innovates with products emblematic of the New York spirit, such as a reusable coffee mug, a baseball cap and a sweatshirt.<\/strong><\/b><\/p>\n <\/p>\n The interior, entrusted to the Dutch architectural firm OMA<\/strong><\/b>, bridges the gap between the southern roots of the brand and this new environment<\/strong><\/b>, with works of art by Wolfgang Tillmans and armchairs designed by Frank Lloyd Wright. The French DNA is nonetheless preserved<\/strong><\/b>, with limestone flooring and neutral-toned walls and fixtures.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n To accompany the launch, the brand, accustomed to pop-up store formats, deployed a foodtruck near the New York outlet for three days<\/strong><\/b>. The foodtruck extolled the merits of the continental breakfast, while organizing a golden ticket hunt with a Le Rond Carr\u00e9 clutch bag as the prize.<\/strong><\/b><\/p>\n <\/p>\n This Jacquemus In New York theme<\/strong><\/b> is well reflected in the new campaign, shot by Tom Kneller<\/strong><\/b> and featuring a preppy style that Blair and Serena from the original Gossip Girls series would not have denied. All with croissant-shaped mascots and delightfully regressive inflatables like the Statue of Liberty.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n In an interview with Fashion Network, designer Simon Porte Jacquemus readily admits that the location was not his first choice<\/strong><\/b>, as he would have preferred to invest in the greener surroundings of Central Park, more in tune with his open-air universe. A change of heart, given the exorbitant rents demanded in Manhattan’s green island.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n According to data reported by Italian media outlet Milano Finanza News, the brand’s two annual openings have been overhauled<\/strong><\/b>. The openings scheduled for 2025 – in Los Angeles in February and Miami later – have been put on hold.<\/strong><\/b><\/p>\n <\/p>\n The opening of Jacquemus’s new boutique in Soho was postponed several times before finally taking place this month.<\/strong><\/b><\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n The slowdown in the luxury goods market<\/strong><\/b> is at the root of this setback, accentuated by the weakening of e-commerce sales, the brand’s preferred channel<\/strong><\/b>. And this despite the fact that, just a few months ago, the fashion label was hailed by the markets for its dynamism and desirability.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n And the situation is unlikely to ease until next year: sources close to the matter anticipate a 15-20% drop in sales for the 2024 financial year.<\/strong><\/b><\/p>\n <\/p>\n Despite the brand’s success, the development of its physical points of sale has put a strain on its finances.<\/strong><\/b> Not to mention the numerous events and fashion shows attracting an increasingly impressive array of celebrities.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n All of which has put the brakes on the company’s geographic expansion…<\/strong><\/b><\/p>\n <\/p>\n Simon Porte Jacquemus hints at a wayout of this situation<\/strong><\/b>, but it seems unlikely that he will be able to stay the course without diluting the brand’s capital, bringing to an end 15 years of total independence.<\/strong><\/b><\/p>\n <\/p>\n The designer and founder told Fashion Network: \u201cThe mission is longevity\u201d<\/strong><\/em><\/b>. He adds : \u201cI know that not many people open stores in their own name.<\/em> I was lucky […] But then I tell myself that my name is on the door, that people know us and that <\/em>at 15, I’m a teenage brand.”<\/strong><\/em><\/b><\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n This seemingly innocuous metaphor seems to confirm the need for guidance<\/strong><\/b> for a brand in its prime. According to information gathered by the investigative media Miss Tweed<\/strong><\/b>, the brand has commissioned the investment bank Rothschild & Co to find a minority investor.<\/strong><\/b><\/p>\n <\/p>\n Known for presenting its products at a pace that runs counter to the official Paris Fashion Week calendar, the brand’s lack of a CEO<\/strong><\/b> since last December makes it all the more in need of a capital injection<\/strong><\/b>. Bastien Daguzan’s sudden departure was announced at the time.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n According to a survey commissioned by Milano Finanza News from Bernstein, Jacquemus will have achieved sales of 280 million euros by 2023 and is aiming for half a billion euros by 2025<\/strong><\/b>. Despite its good performance, the firm’s experts seem to rule out the arrival of a large group due to its small size, believing that support from an investment fund is more likely.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/span><\/p>\n <\/span><\/p>\n \t\tFrom Paris to Soho<\/h2>\n
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![\"Jacquemus](\"https:\/\/luxus-plus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/Jacquemus_NYC_1-819x1024.jpg\" "\\"Jacquemus")
American expansion on hold?<\/h2>\n\n
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![\"Jacquemus](\"https:\/\/luxus-plus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/Jacquemus_NYC_4-819x1024.jpg\" "\\"Jacquemus")