From February 14 to 18, the English capital unveiled the fall-winter 2020-2021 collections of its fashion designers. Here’s what you shouldn’t miss.
By Luxus Plus
British know-how in the spotlight
While the UK has long been torn apart over the Brexit issue, this season, the creators have shown themselves determined to unite. The main objective : to show that we are British and proud of it ! How ? By exposing the extent of its unique know-how.
The English house for excellence, Margaret Howell celebrated the 50th anniversary of her brand with a collection faithful to its DNA, embellished with pieces in coated canvas in partnership with the Barbour label. The shirts are worn wide, the pleated skirts, the high waisted and slightly oversized suit pants, while the classic duffle coat is accessorized with a rain hat.
At Erdem, English fashion makes us dream with its traditional embroidery, romantic ruffles and vintage-looking floral prints.
With her abundant tulle as a signature, Molly Goddard seems to be making a most tender declaration to her native country. The latter is scratched, on dresses with exacerbated femininity but also knows how to be discreet, appearing from time to time, under a midi skirt.
As for the parade of the famous Burberry brand which took place at the Olympia National Hall, at the west end of London, its iconic trench was seen infinitely declined, in perfect harmony with what England knows how to do better : authentic and timeless fashion.
Usually a subscriber to the New York calendar, this time Tommy Hilfiger unveiled his new collection co-produced with Formula 1 champion Lewis Hamilton in London. For this occasion, the American designer chose to take over the basement of the Tate Modern, a Mecca for British culture. And who better than Naomi Campbell, the formidable English supermodel, to open the show ? The woman nicknamed “the black panther”, thus appeared in a yellow and white tracksuit to the sound of the song “Take me back to London”.
Free and optimistic fashion
Designer Richard Quinn has already conquered the very demanding fashion world (and Queen Elizabeth II, who came to watch his show in February 2018) in just five shows. Music, champagne and flowery decor awaited his guests at Lawrence Hall, who were able to discover a collection with a pronounced taste of freedom. Evening dresses with imposing bows, dresses with puffed sleeves, XXL floral prints and sparkling jewelry branded on whole outfits … a festive show to be enjoyed.
At Michael Halpern’s parade, psychedelic and animal prints, multicolored sequins, exaggerated play on volumes and fuchsia colors were part of the show. A use of color that also recalls that of the Roksanda fashion show, which captivated the guests with its many poetic pieces.
For his part, the designer J.W Anderson has translated his good humor by his stylistic games dotted here and there: on an oversized collar lapel, on very puffed sleeves or on dresses branded with large sequins.
At Victoria Beckham, the need for freer fashion was clearly expressed in the show’s notes of intent. Remaining faithful to her minimalist and preppy look, it nevertheless revealed slightly more liberated associations, such as her red shorts worn with a matching short skirt and her knitted dress with cut-outs at the sleeves.
In the unexpected kind, the stainless Hussein Chalayan made a name for himself by singing on the soundtrack of his own parade. The Turkish designer doesn’t seem to have the promise of a pop star career, but he does demonstrate his ability to last in fashion, betting this season on the simplicity of a slightly unstructured black dress.