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Haute couture week in Paris: What to remember from the 1st day

Haute couture week in Paris: What to remember from the 1st day

Since yesterday Monday, the greatest haute couture houses are taking up residence in Paris until January 28th, on the occasion of Fashion Week. The artistic directors of the most prestigious fashion brands are presenting their spring-summer 2021 collections in a 100% digitalized way.

 

Synonymous with exceptional know-how and traditional history, the houses have been playing the digital game for a year now and their creations have been a great success despite the situation. This virtual distribution has also enabled the brands to gain considerable visibility among Internet users.

 

“100 million people saw the Vuitton fashion show this summer in Asia. In the aftermath, sales exploded like never before in China and South Korea. Yet professionals were very worried a few months ago”. explained a press attaché from France info.

 

The parades cross our screens and the communication around them is much more open than before.

 

With the digitalization of Fashion Week, things have changed. There is a whole phase of communication that now takes place before the show and is an event in itself, which everyone can access. We are witnessing a shift in exclusivity. Happy Fews are no longer the ones who attend the shows, but those who receive physical invitations, for example, which have become an experience in themselves. This season the Louis Vuitton invitation [a child’s play kit airplane] created a buzz on the networks. It’s a new viral mechanism that’s being put in place“, according to Marie Dupin, business director for fashion and lifetsyle at the Nelly Rodi consulting agency.

 

On Monday, January 25, Shiaparelli, Ulyana Sergeenko, and Iris Van Herpen opened the ball in the morning. In the early afternoon, Dior followed suit after unveiling a most intriguing teaser.

 

Ulyana sergeenko

 

The Russian dressmaker Ulyana Sergeenko presented a collection inspired by the past by creating a wardrobe full of Art Deco references, from the artist Erté to the Empire State Building to the Moscow Airport metro station. Through embroidery, crystal lace or enamel panels, diamonds and elongated hexagonal shapes represent this season’s iconic looks. Sharp-shouldered crepe jackets, jewel-decorated cardigans, pencil skirts, and floating chiffon dresses are brought together in a film featuring models inspired by Russian silent movie star Vera Kholodnaya in the first part, and the designer’s workshop in the second part.

 

© Ulyana Sergeenko

 

Shiaparelli

 

Bomber jacket, jewelry, trompe-l’oeil corsets and leather pants are the elements composing the 2021 wardrobe of Elsa Shiaparelli. It is through a dynamic mini report retracing the life of a collection, from its creation to its communication, that the eponymous fashion house has decided to unveil its spring-summer 2021 collection. An extravagant and unusual line in the middle of a sober decor. The talent of founder Schiaparelli is showcased with a new interpretation of her traditional pieces: the hooded veil imagined in 1938, a signature padlock, here imagined in the manner of a minaudière. All this confirms the theatrical and extravagant style subtly anchored in our time that Daniel Roseberry loves so much.

 

© Schiaparelli

 

Iris Van Herpen

 

Roots of Rebirth, Iris Van Herpen’s spring-summer 2021 haute couture collection, was unveiled through a soberly relayed classic fashion show. Here, the theme of earthly fashion and that of the underworld is in the spotlight, carried by silhouettes imagined in the manner of moving canvases. The pieces reveal a hypnotic character and are worn in sculptural ways, unfolding like living organisms and becoming one with the flesh. The pieces demonstrate an innovative know-how with laser cuttings and a 3D technique handled to perfection. In addition, the Iranian-Dutch singer Sevdaliza, previously featured in Marine Serre’s latest short film and on the Y/Project catwalk, honored us with her presence.

 

© Iris Van Herpen

 

Dior

 

Dior has done it again in a big way to present its new collection. The house recalled Matteo Garrone, the director with whom it collaborated last July. The line is presented through a fascinating film called “Le Château du Tarot“, which takes up the brand’s favorite theme: the divinatory arts. Once again, it is a celebration of the heritage, history and visionary expertise of the House. The collection revolves around the Visconti-Sforza tarot decorated by illuminator Bonifacio Bembo for the Duke of Milan in the 15th century.

 

All the creations are then illustrated by divine characters such as the Empress, the Moon, the Devil, Justice… and testify to an exceptional know-how including the art of weaving. The clothes are thus decorated with lace and embroidery for the occasion of an evening.

 

The film did not leave Internet users stunned, they were “amazed“, “bluffed” and the reactions of this type were very strong. The house’s powerful creativity could not have been better conveyed by it.

 

 

© Dior

 

Azzaro

 

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This season, in a sophisticated video that alternates licked blacks and whites with cold and glamorous atmospheres, Spanish photographer and director Txema Yeste sublimates Azzaro haute couture creations through a play of reflections and shimmering.

 

 

© Azzaro

 

Usually more inspired by romanticism and gothicism, Belgian designer Olivier Theyskens infuses the Italian house with a dark, even poisonous sensuality. Fluidity pervades the materials and cuts, sequins and brocades bring a touch of opulence, while the House’s iconic three-ring pattern is moved to the back. The basques, dresses, coats and puffed sleeves – typical of the designer’s vocabulary – make a striking entrance here.

 

This first day ended in delicacy with a show by Julie de Libran and Giambattista Valli.

 

This Tuesday, it will be the turn of other major brands such as Chanel, Valentino, or Giorgio Armani to enter the dance. Chanel’s teaser, directed by Anton Corbijn, reveals the place where the line will be presented: the Grand Palais. The first images unveiled by the house only confirm its engaging reputation.

 

 

© Chanel

 

Click here for the complete program.

 

Read also > MILAN FASHION WEEK : WHAT TO REMEMBER!

 

Featured Photo : © Shiaparelli

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