As in supermarkets, sales fell in selective perfumery. According to NPD, turnover (2.93 billion euros) decreased by 2% in 2018 whereas in 2017, it had decreased by 1%. However, many small perfume laboratories are opening up all over France. Decryption of a two-speed market.
Remember that the NPD panel does not take into account the own brands and exclusive brands of each brand. These products, which allow each brand to differentiate itself, are on the rise.
It is therefore possible that the circuit is not as far back. However, the NPD perimeter gives a trend which is more negative than among our neighbors. “In Southern Europe and North America, the market is doing quite well.
“The French market is really special”, says Mathilde Lion, beauty expert at NPD. And the yellow vests did not have a strong impact. “Sales have been negative throughout the year. There was no big drop in sales in December and no big carry-over to e-commerce, “said Mathilde Lion.
At the same time, many small perfume laboratories are opening up all over France. In the vein of “do it yourself“, they demonstrate a deep desire for a fragrance that stands out.
Custom perfumes, a profitable business?
For example, Victoire de Neufville slides six cartridges into the tray of the Scent Creator, a perfume generator designed by The Alchemist Atelier with the support of Puig (Nina Ricci) and BSH (Bosch, Siemens). Each of these cartridges contains a few drops of a delicate blend: Damask rose, spicy sandalwood with pepper, lemon spiced with green tea …
To choose the three bases as well as the three agreements, the client first smelled a certain number and was inspired by several photos to express his feelings, because “talking about smells is complicated“, recognizes the young perfumer of The Alchemist Atelier. A machine weighs the essences, performs the mixing and delivers a necessarily unique scent. And for good reason, it’s yours.
For 129 euros, those who seek originality come out of the workshop in possession of 20 ml of their eau de parfum. Each of the following 20 ml with the same formula will be charged 59 euros, for a total of 3,020 euros for a liter of perfume.
In addition, people very interested in this concept spend 600 euros to buy their own Scent Creator, supplied with 6 fragrances that they can renew or change for 18 to 24 euros per unit. The first liter of homemade perfume costs around 6,400 euros.
Personalized perfumes have been forgotten for the past century, with Guerlain almost remaining the only one to offer them to the privileged few. The ultimate, the real tailor-made, is reserved for an elite.
It is designed from start to finish for you by a master perfumer, like Thierry Wasser at Guerlain. This process completes the range of high-end possibilities already existing, such as niche brands, limited editions and private collections. In 2005, with a view to developing this type of creation, Cartier hired Mathilde Laurent, who will then be at the origin of the fragrance “Declaration of an Evening”.