As the spring-summer 2021 Parisian haute couture week has just come to an end, the fashion world has been transformed into a digital version. Traditionally unveiled by models parading on stage, collections are now presented through film masterpieces. Pandemic obliges.
For a year now, the emblematic events of haute couture have been taking place digitally. The watchword of these last seasons of fashion shows has become “creativity”. Indeed, the houses can no longer be satisfied with a simple traditional show to unveil their new collection.
For this, luxury brands had to be able to create a presentation that could captivate the public’s attention long enough, while showcasing their wardrobe in an original way.
For this purpose, the majority of artistic directors have called upon art directors and filmmakers for the production of high value-added content. Audiences were then entitled to watch multiple film productions such as short films.
“It’s a great opportunity to get messages across to an audience that will be focused on the images rather than looking at who’s sitting in the front row”. according to Maurizio Galante.
“There’s no point in denying that fashion shows are a key element, not only for Dior, but for everyone in the fashion world. Guests are part of the show” said Maria Grazia Chiuri, Dior’sartistic director, “The beginning of the year has been very difficult. There have been ups and downs. It’s tiring to constantly find the strength to keep moving forward. But creativity is a refuge in these difficult times. “
Dior’s sublime presentation for its spring-summer 2021 collection did not leave the marble public in awe, quite the contrary. This fascinating film called “The Tarot Castle” and thematizing the brand’s passion – the divinatory arts – was created by Matteo Garrone. The filmmaker had already collaborated with the brand last July and is known for his successes: Gomorrah and Pinocchio, both awarded in Cannes.
The collection is then deployed around the Visconti-Sforza tarot, decorated by the illuminator Bonifacio Bembo for the Duke of Milan in the fifteenth century, and features tarot characters such as Justice, the Madman and Death.
“Tarot cards speak of a magical world. Not to tell us the future, but to better understand the present and our personality,” says Maria Grazia Chiuri.
Garrone’s artisanal approach “has a poetic language, extremely picturesque, which blends very well with my vision of haute couture,” she told AFP.
Chanel also chose the short film format to present its haute couture collection and called on Anton Corbijn, known for his biopic Joy Division Control and numerous photographic portraits of rock icons.
Virginie Viard, creative director of Chanel, first asked the Dutch photographer and filmmaker for a series of photos and a teaser shot in the workshops at 31 Rue Cambon.
For the film, Chanel goes one step further and presents us with the light universe of a carefree summer evening in the heart of the Grand Palais. The film is colorful to convey the celebration of life, not self-pity. The muses Marion Cotillard, Penelope Cruz and Vanessa Paradis were present and attended the party.
“I knew we couldn’t organize a big parade, that we had to do something else. So I came up with the idea of a small procession going down the stairs of the Grand Palais. Like a family celebration, a wedding,” Virginie Viard confided.
Hermès, for it’s part, presented its men’s collection through an artistic performance filmed in real time by the theater director Cyril Teste in the house’s workshops in Pantin near Paris.
“I’m always looking for renewal and even though change panics me as much as it stimulates me, I prefer this anxiety to repetition. The unexpected is creative,” said Véronique Nichanian, designer of the men’s collections at Hermès.
“One thing particularly interested me: to get into the eye of the creator and into the backstage that the public of the parades never really has access to”, Cyril Teste confided in a press release.
Through cinematic masterpieces, the collections can be observed more closely and certain details, hardly noticeable in the parades, are more visible. Another advantage? The rerun, anyone will be able to admire and examine the clothes as much as they wish.
Photo à la Une : © Dior