The week dedicated to haute couture ended last Thursday in Paris, with the presentation of the spring-summer 2020 collections of Jean-Paul Gaultier, Givenchy, or Iris Van Herpen. Back on the highlights!
By Luxus Plus
The last parade of the icon Jean-Paul Gaultier
At the Théâtre du Châtelet, Jean-Paul Gaultier gave a monumental show carried by an equally spectacular cast including Amanda Lear, Mylène Farmer and Kiddy Smile. Without forgetting Boy George, Mylène Farmer, Amanda Lear, Béatrice Dalle but also Estelle Lefébure, Paris Jackson, Antoine de Caunes, Noémie Lenoir and the Hadid sisters.
Emotion and virtuosity were mixed for this last epic parade.
For this final show, Jean-Paul Gaultier opened with an excerpt from a cult film for fashion purists, Who are you, Polly Maggoo, a satirical comedy by William Klein. All the pieces featured in this show were made with his archives and by upcycling his old creations.
“I’m very moved tonight,” says Nicolas Ghesquière, who was the couturier’s assistant from 1990 to 1992. “I love everything about Jean Paul Gaultier. He has always gone beyond all limits, the barriers that can sometimes be imposed in fashion.” “He’s been dressing me since the 1980s, just the day before yesterday I was giving an award to Almodóvar dressed as Gaultier,” said Victoria Abril, still stunned by this great departure, announced on January 18.
Givenchy, a colourful parade
Clare Waight Keller, head of the house of Givenchy, unveiled her spring-summer 2020 haute couture collection during Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday 21 January. Between the shapes of the dresses, the floral prints and the spring colors, no doubt, the flower is at the center of this new line.
The sumptuous wedding dress worn by Kaia Gerber did not go unnoticed. This semi-transparent dress with bare shoulders and accessorized with sequined shoes could have been self-sufficient as the floral lace is so meticulous.
However, the immense veil covering the entire piece made the outfit even more beautiful. Also seen in blue and black, in a less spectacular size on the various models that trod the catwalk, the maxi veil seems to be the new fashion trend for brides-to-be.
Iris Van Herpen, contemporary designer
In the heart of the Cirque d’Hiver plunged into deep darkness, swirling sculptures of light appear, a decor that perfectly matches the universe imagined by the Dutch creator. Inspired by the biological illustrations of Santiago Ramón y Cajal, who made a particular contribution to the representation of the nervous system in the 19th century, the latter transcribes the organic forms and tree-like lines on the silhouettes through her new collection.
Thus, we find on her pieces the spirals of shells, the ochre and green tones of seaweed and shapes imitating their light leaves. In addition, silk organzas give the pieces fluidity and delicacy, while the fineness of their cut is made possible by new technology.
Iris van Herpen is a faithful follower of 3D printing, and uses it here to create the silicone lines on the fabrics or to cut the materials with greater precision using a laser.
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